KeraGuard Powerful protection and repair for hair

Transcription

1 KeraGuard Powerful protection and repair for hair

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3 KeraGuard Powerful protection and repair for hair KeraGuard combines tara tannins derived from Caesalpinia spinosa pods and organic sunflower sprout extract. This unique combination is revealed as a powerful antioxidant elixir for hair care applications. Although hair is a physiological phenomenon, it is also a social one. Indeed, hair is an object of intense elaboration and preoccupation in almost all societies. Hairstyles and rituals surrounding hair care and adornment tend to convey powerful messages about the beliefs, lifestyles and commitments of a person. Therefore, our hair is regularly subjected to weathering. Hair weathering is the deterioration of the hair shaft from root to tip and is the result of a range of cosmetic and environmental factors. Cosmetic practices such as combing, brushing, straightening, perming, dyeing, etc., as well as environmental factors such as exposure to UV light and polluted air (significant amounts of free-radical molecules) can induce structural damage to the F-layer and the hair fiber. The cuticle becomes raised and porous, which exposes the cortex to further damage. A decrease in hair shine, color, elasticity and strength is observed, which ultimately leads to hair damage. In different studies measured utilizing state-of-the-art technologies, KeraGuard revealed a capacity to protect hair against free radicals and physical stresses. It was also shown to protect dyed hair from color fading as well as to repair chemically treated hair. In plus, KeraGuard showed a protective effect from heat damage. Claim Ideas for KeraGuard Protects hair against heat and UV stress Repairs chemically treated hair Prevents the color fading of hair Restores the resilience of hair Applications Shampoos, conditioners, masks Styling products Color protection products Heat protection formulas Formulating with KeraGuard Recommended use level: 0.5 % 2 % Incorporation: For cold processes, dissolve KeraGuard into the aqueous phase. In hot / cold processes, add during the cooling phase below 40 C. Thermostability: Temperatures of up to 40 C for a short time will not affect the stability of KeraGuard. INCI Declaration KeraGuard (standard version): Caesalpinia Spinosa Fruit Extract (and) Propylene Glycol (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Sprout Extract (and) Sodium Benzoate (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Aqua / Water KeraGuard pwd (powder version without preservatives, two-fold concentrated): Caesalpinia Spinosa Fruit Extract (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Sprout Extract (and) Maltodextrin (and) Aqua / Water January 2018

4 The Hair Main structure and components The Hair Unit Hair is an integrated system with a peculiar chemical and physical behavior that acts as a unit. It consists of two distinct structures: the part beneath the skin, which is called the follicle, and the visible hair shaft (the part above the skin surface). The hair shaft structure is the same for all ethnicities and is composed of cuticle, cortex and medulla. Despite the shape of the hair varying enormously, chemical analysis shows that its basic composition is invariably keratin. Indeed, studies indicate that the shape of the hair follicle and its position on the scalp determine the shape and thickness of the hair. Each healthy hair is surrounded by a protective cuticle which is similar to the overlapping shingles on a roof, oriented from root to tip. Inside the cuticle, the cortex of the hair contains keratin and melanin. Keratin strengthens the hair while melanin provides the color to the hair. Melanin also protects the hair shaft from sun damage by acting as a barrier for UV radiation. The medulla is the core of the hair and might even be absent. The cuticle is responsible for the luster and texture of human hair. The normal cuticle is smooth, which allows for light reflection and the limiting of friction between the hair shafts. Generally speaking, it is formed by 6 8 scales for Asians, slightly less for Caucasians and even less in African hair. A thinner cuticle layer makes the hair more prone to breakage. In spite of the hydro phobicity surface of the cuticle, the hair absorbs moisture. This contradictory behavior, which is known as the hair paradox, is the result of the interior of the fiber containing hydrophilic amino acid residues. The F-Layer Each cuticle cell contains a thin proteinaceous membrane, the epicuticle, which is covered by an invisible, water-resistant lipid layer that acts as a natural conditioner. This outer lipid layer, which is known as the fatty layer or F-layer, mainly consists of 18-methyleicosanoic acid (18-MEA) and is what naturally gives human hair its smooth and silky feel. Hair Cuticle and the F-Layer Structure Hair 18-MEA Cuticle

5 Stress factors The hair is constantly exposed to damage Hair Weathering Hair weathering is the progressive hair damage that results from external stress factors, which are basically the wear and tear from the environment and cosmetic procedures that mainly affect the hair fiber: environmental pollutants (smog, cigarette smoke, radiation, etc.) generate free radicals and ROS. These molecules oxidize and degrade the proteins and lipids of the hair surface. sun exposure, wind and salt water tend to dehydrate it. Oxygen radicals created by UVR break down the disulfide bonds of structural units which reduces the integrity of the hair fiber. Thus, the hair is prone to breakage and to color fading. physical stress (such as combing, blow drying, excessive heat from strengthening or curling irons) is likely to dehydrate and degrade the proteins of the hair surface. drastic procedures such as perming, relaxing and bleaching cause structural and chemical damage, and are also a source of free radicals and ROS. shampoos and styling products, in addition, can ultimately cause dehydration of the hair. Generally speaking, daily weathering and chemical cosmetics procedures might damage hair by removing the F-layer and drastically reducing the hydrophobicity of the hair surface. Hair Aging The hair fibers that emerge from the scalp exhibit significant age-related changes that have an equal impact on the overall cosmetic properties of the hair. The aging hair is increasingly sensitive to weathering, with increased fiber reactivity to reducing and oxidizing agents. Moreover, aging hair is more sensitive to UVR and pollution, as both are ultimately a source of free radicals. The adverse impact includes degradation and the loss of hair proteins as well as degradation of hair pigment. All of these stress factors make the hair more porous and therefore more brittle, rough feeling as well as dull looking. Consequently, the hair needs to be reinforced, repaired and protected on a daily basis. Hair Weathering: Stress Factors that Damage the Hair Scalp Environmental stress Drastic procedures Blow-drying and oxidative stress Shampoos and styling products Mechanical stress Water Oil Hair fiber

6 KeraGuard Powerful antioxidant and repair complex Tara Tannins, a Powerful Antioxidant Tannins extracted from Caesalpinia spinosa (tara) are highly efficient and stable antioxidants. Tara is a small leguminous tree that is native to the Peruvian Andes and which tolerates dry climates and poor soils (notably sandy to rocky soils). Tara has large, colorful flowers and fruits called pods that range from a reddish to brown color. Tara pods, which are used in traditional medicine to treat infections and improve healing, are very rich in hydrolysable tannins with gallic acid as the main constituent. Tannins have antimicrobial and astringent effects. In fact, thanks to their capacity to bind to proteins, tannins are able to inhibit the growth of fungi and bacteria by interfering with their cell walls. Tara tannins are also known as efficient antioxidants, classically as electron donators but also as metal ion chelators. Sunflower Sprouts Sunflowers turn towards the sun: this not only symbolizes homage and constancy but also power, warmth and nourishment the attributes of the sun. Organic sunflower sprouts were selected as a source for our active ingredient. Compared to the mature plant, shoots have a higher content of essential fatty acids, vitamins and minerals, as well as a range of secondary plant metabolites. These compounds are not required for primary metabolic processes like growing. Their role is to protect the plant from diseases, damage, pathogens, extreme UV and pollutants. KeraGuard against the Pro-Aging Effect on Hair KeraGuard is a combination of Tara tannins and organic Sunflower sprout extract. Tara tannins are potent antioxidants and free radical scavengers that are able to bind the protein structure and shield the hair. Their combination with organic sunflower sprout extract results in a powerful fusion that is capable of neutralizing the harmful effects of free radicals that come from the environment (e.g. pollution, the sun etc.) and repair the hair following chemical treatments. The various nutrients present in KeraGuard help to encourage healthy as well as lustrous hair.

7 KeraGuard Study results Antioxidant Power Compared to that of Vitamin C The antioxidant power (AP) of KeraGuard was determined by evaluating its capacity to reduce DPPH (diphenyl-picryl-hydrazyl), which is a stable and wellknown radical, by using Electron Spin Resonance (ESR) spectroscopy. This technique is used to detect unpaired electrons in radicals. The AP indicates the quantity of free radicals that are neutralized according to time and therefore this value provides information about both the intensity of the reaction and its speed. A high AP corresponds to a strong capacity to neutralize free radicals correlated to a short reaction time. The AP of KeraGuard (dry matter) was benchmarked against pure vitamin C (ascorbic acid) and compared to known values of other substances in their pure form, such as green tea. As shown in the graph below, KeraGuard has a high AP, which indicates that it neutralizes antioxidants and free radicals both in a robust and quick manner. It is therefore an effective and efficient antioxidant. Furthermore, KeraGuard was shown to be almost as active as vitamin C and much more efficient than green tea. Antioxidant Power Close to that of Vitamin C 1 Relative Antioxidative Power Vitamin C Green tea KeraGuard S-605/ Mibelle Biochemistry

8 KeraGuard Study results Antioxidant Protection Effect on Hair Analysis of the radical scavenging properties of KeraGuard was assessed by the Radical Hair Protection method (RHP). RHP is based on the measurement of the Electron Spin Resonance (ESR) spectrum of melanin in the human hair. Brown and black hair possess a defined and stable melanin signal (Melanin I). UV irradiation of the hair generates free radicals that are scavenged by the melanin polymer and this leads to a re-organization of its electron structure. This new structure emits a different melanin signal (Melanin II). The increase of Melanin II signal is directly proportional to the UV dose; in other words, to the oxidative damage on the hair. Natural brown-auburn human Caucasian hair was incubated in water (placebo) or in 0.5 % and 2 % KeraGuard diluted in H 2 O for 10 minutes, and this was followed by two washes in deionized water or left unwashed. Melanin signal intensity was measured by ESR before and after 5 minutes of UV radiation. The intensity following irradiation was normalized to the intensity before irradiation (= relative Melanin increase). Results showed that KeraGuard significantly increased the hair protection against UV stress in a dose dependent manner. KeraGuard also exerts its antioxidant protection power after being washed off. Antioxidant Protection on Hair Without washing With washing step Radical hair protection compared to initial conditions and H2O treatment in % * * % KeraGuard 2 % KeraGuard *p<0.05 versus treatment with H 2 O S-706/ Mibelle Biochemistry

9 Hair Color Protection against Consecutive Washing and UV Exposure Hair tresses of dark brown Caucasian human hair were bleached, rinsed and then dyed with a commercial red hair dye. The baseline color was then determined. A simulation of two weeks of product application (three product applications per week) and washing was performed. The test products were a hair serum (placebo) and the hair serum which contained 0.5 % KeraGuard. Chromameter measurements for hair lightness L* were carried out five times per hair tress. Following this, twelve product applications were performed and intercalated by UV exposure cycles, which simulated fifteen days of intense sun exposure (108 hours). Finally, the hair lightness L* was determined by Chromameter (five times per hair tress). Results showed a significant hair color protection with 0.5 % KeraGuard compared to the placebo, following the washing procedure as well as after washing and UV irradiation. Color Protection Effect Placebo 0.5 % KeraGuard 20 Protection from color fading compared to initial conditions and untreated in % * * Washing Washing + UV *p<0.001 versus placebo S-677/ Mibelle Biochemistry

10 KeraGuard Study results Repair of Bleached Hair The repair action of KeraGuard on bleached hair was analyzed by copper amino acid complexes formed in human hair and measured using electron spin resonance (ESR) spectroscopy. Bleaching raises the outer cuticle of the hair, which allows the bleaching agent to penetrate and remove color by oxidation. During such chemical treatments the bond between the F-layer and the keratin cysteine gets severed: the disulfide-bonds (-S-S-) are disrupted and the resulting SH groups are available for under going complex formation with bivalent ions. Cu(II) ions are able to complex with free -SH groups and this is measurable via ESR. The higher the damage of the F-layer of the hair, the more free SH groups are available to complex with copper. Natural brown Caucasian human hair and bleached hair were used for the measurements. The hair was cut in small pieces and incubated with 0.5 % and 1 % KeraGuard (in water) for 10 minutes, washed with water and then incubated with a solution of CuSO 4 for 10 minutes and washed again in water. The spectrum was registered in order to detect at that moment the copper absorbance. KeraGuard showed a significant repair action against the damage of the F-layer by hair bleaching. Restoration Effect of Bleached Hair 4.2 Hair damage after bleaching normalized to unbleached hair control (=1) * * 3 H 2 O 0.5 % KeraGuard 1 % KeraGuard *p<0.05 versus H 2 O treatment S-705/ Mibelle Biochemistry

11 Protection of the Hair from Heat Damage Hair tresses of natural dark brown human hair were washed with a shampoo (an aqueous solution of SLES 12 %). Hair fibers were then rinsed with tap water for 30 seconds, with a constant water flow, in order to completely remove the SLES. The test products were then applied: a hair serum (placebo) a hair serum containing 0.5 % KeraGuard. Hair fibers were dipped in the test products for a period of 5 seconds then massaged manually for 30 seconds in order to spread the product homogeneously. All hair tresses were rinsed with tap water with a constant water flow. The baseline was determined after two cycles of washing and test products application. Thereafter, the hair fibers were submitted to eight cycles of heat damage induced with a flat iron (Rowenta for Elite model Look) at 200 ºC for 1 minute and 30 seconds intercalated with the application of the test products and the corresponding washing step. The degree of hair damage was evaluated by Scanning Electron Microscopy (FEI Quanta 400 FEG_ESEM / EDAX Pegasus X4M) at the baseline and after eight cycles of heat damage. Results showed that 0.5 % KeraGuard effectively protects the hair cuticle from the heat damage in comparison to the placebo. The high resolution images showed a significant change on the hair surface before and after heating and in the presence or not of KeraGuard: after heating the cuticle scales of the hair treated with the placebo were lifted up and in some areas it was even observed its disintegration. The hair started to fray and jagged edges appeared. KeraGuard, instead, protected the hair cuticle from jagging. After heating, the cuticle scales lied flatter on the hair tresses treated with 0.5 % KeraGuard than on those treated with the placebo. Heat Protection Effect Before After heat damage 0.5 % KeraGuard Placebo S-721 / Mibelle Biochemistry

12 Mibelle AG Biochemistry, 5033 Buchs / Switzerland, Phone , info@mibellebiochemistry.com, KeraGuard Powerful protection and repair for hair Claim Ideas Protects hair against heat and UV stress Repairs chemically treated hair Prevents the color fading of hair Restores resilience of the hair Applications Shampoos, conditioners, masks Styling products Color protection products Heat protection formulas Marketing Benefits Extremely powerful natural antioxidant complex Performs effectively in leave-on and rinse-off formulations Available in a version without preservatives Innovating for your success Mibelle Biochemistry designs and develops innovative, high-quality actives based on naturally derived compounds and profound scientific know-how. Inspired by nature Realized by science. The information contained in this publication is provided in good faith and is based on our current knowledge. No legally binding promise or warranty regarding the suitability of our products for any specific use is made. Claim ideas are offered solely for your consideration, investigation and verification. Mibelle Biochemistry will not assume any expressed or implied liability in connection with any use of this information. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any manner without the prior written permission of Mibelle AG Biochemistry.