OYA Circle of Success: Gray Coverage

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1 OYA Circle of Success: Gray Coverage OYA Presentation Prep: KEEP IN MIND THAT SOME SLIDES INCLUDE ANIMATIONS OF CONTENT AND NOT ALL CONTENT WITHIN A SLIDE WILL APPEAR UNTIL YOU CLICK. HAVE THE OYA TOOLS, STRAND CHART, AND LIGHTENER GUIDE AVAILBLE FOR VISUAL AID AND REFERENCE. Script Key 14 pt. font bold underlined text Beginning of PowerPoint slide ITALIC CAPITALIZED TEXT DIRECTION: ACTION. DO NOT READ ALOUD. 12 pt. font- non B I U text Dialogue guide & slide content Fuchsia bold text Emphasize Introduction: (Slide 2) Hi, my name is, your OYA Artistic Instructor for today s class. Thank you for giving OYA this time today. Beautiful and effective gray coverage is an essential skill for every successful colorist. Gray coverage customers make up the majority of your color business and when you can exceed their expectations, you will thrive! Course Overview: (Slide 3) Here is an overview of the important aspects of learning about OYA Gray Coverage: What is OYA? The OYA Circle of Success OYA Technology Meets Nature Structure of hair Hair texture OYA covering gray hair essentials OYA Lotions The complete OYA Gray Coverage Series The Basic Color Theory Underlying Pigment The OYA Color Globe- KISS System OYA -00 (N + ) Series OYA Demi Permanent Color Series OYA Harmony Technique OYA Strand Chart OYA 3 Steps for Successful OYA Formulations OYA Tools 1

2 The OYA Colorist App What is OYA?: (Slide 4) OYA stands for: Own Your Art OYA is hair color that performs, simply and beautifully. It s uncomplicated yet multifaceted. Developed by an international team of experts and made in the USA. Accessible, understandable, and highly functional. Synergistic and consistent. Always resulting in radiant, versatile, reflective color that retains the hair s integrity and shine. OYA is a private, independent, new venture, founded and supported by the Schwarzkopf family whose dedication to the professional hair industry has been consistent for 4 generations. OYA s is committed to the working stylists. We understand you. When you succeed, we succeed. And speaking of success. The OYA Circle of Success: (Slide 5) The Circle of Success brings stylists together, builds skill sets and creates strong partnerships and relationships. 3 Key Elements: Experience OYA oyabeauty.com Comprehensive video tutorials on oyabeauty.com On tour with mini shows Master OYA OYA Colorist App Cluster classes and in-salon education Share OYA With your peers so that all skill levels are elevated Facebook, Instagram, Pinterest- Search OYAbeauty Hashtag: #OYA, #OYAbeauty, #OYAcolorist, #OYAcolor, etc. The Circle of Success will never break or separate and OYA will continuously share useful education encourage your creative expression. OYA Technology Meets Nature: (Slide 6) PLAY VIDEO Here is our incredible technology story 2

3 OYA s exclusive Natural Color Support Complex features two key ingredients: Green Tea and Sea Kelp. Our new color technology supports more predictable results and better color retention. OYA Technology Meets Nature: (Slide 7) Green Tea Protect Powerful antioxidants (20x stronger than Vitamin E) prevents premature color fading Antioxidants protect the hair from outside influences (UV) increasing color retention Anti-inflammatory properties reduce scalp swelling Xanthines encourage scalp circulation and prevent irritation Delightful natural fragrance transforms every hair color application into a sensual experience OYA Technology Meets Nature: (Slide 8) Sea Kelp Restore Packed with 15 amino acids and minerals with rebalancing properties to vitalize and refresh hair and scalp Contains essential fatty acids that maintain and increase hair suppleness and elasticity Antioxidant algal polyphenols and carotenoids protect hair from damage and prolong hair color vibrancy by eliminating cell damaging free radicals Contains Vitamins A, C, D, E, K and folic acid for superior internal nourishment Soothes and moisturizes hair and scalp during and after the color service Reduces electrostatic charges to control frizz and flyaways Helps repair damaged hair Structure of Hair: (Slide 9) Understanding the structure of hair will help you visualize what happens when hair is colored. Hair is divided into 3 distinct layers: Hair Cuticle - this is the window to the hair colorist world. This is where OYA Demi Permanent Color lives. The outer part of the hair consists of layers of keratinized protein, protecting the soft inner cortex. The importance of keeping the integrity and strength of this cuticle layer should not be understated. When the cuticle is intact, you have excellent color retention and shine. Cortex - this is the space inside the hair strand where hair color will be altered or changed permanently. The cortex is the largest part of the hair where all the chemical and physical processes take place when it comes to OYA Permanent Color. Inside the cortex there are two types of melanin that affect artificial color and are of the utmost importance to the hair colorist, they are: 3

4 eumelanin and pheomelanin. Eumelanin is the melanin, responsible for the darkness or lightness of the hair being brown or black. The large molecules naturally occur in the cortex and are easy to lift and remove. Low concentrations of eumelanin result in lighter colored hair and high concentrations of eumelanin result in darker colored hair. Pheomelanin is the naturally occurring yellow and red pigments found in warm hair colors. The small molecules exist in the cortex and are difficult to lift or remove. Pheomelanin creates a foundation for artificial color pigments especially when you are coloring gray hair. Gray hair is the lack of eumelanin and pheomelanin. Medulla - most inner structure of the hair shaft. When over processed, it affects the integrity of structure. When the medulla structure is compromised, the result is faster fading and difficulty in achieving complete coverage. Hair Texture: (Slide 10) Determining your customer s hair texture will assist you with your hair color formulations in 3 ways: Fine textured hair has less space to fill so you may need to formulate up by 1 level Medium textured hair should be formulated per manufacturers recommendations Coarse textured hair has more space to fill so you may need to formulate down 1 level Texture affects timing. Coarser texture may require additional timing for gray coverage. Covering Gray Hair Essentials: (Slide 11) The OYA 100% Gray Coverage Series provides effective, shiny, and youthful-looking results. You have 4 different series to choose from. When you re formulating, remember if the hair is more than 50% gray, mix the 100% Gray Coverage Series with your target color to produce your desired result with complete gray coverage. If it s less than 50% gray, you can formulate with ANY OYA Shade and achieve complete gray coverage. Remember, you can also mix the OYA Fashion Series to create an unlimited number of possibilities. Use OYA 20 vol. Lotion for the very best gray coverage results. 4

5 Permanent color has ammonia and a higher ph, which allows the color to live in the cortex and be permanent. It goes through the cuticle layers into the cortex and reacts with existing melanin to permanently alter the color with artificial pigments. When the target color is a lighter level than the natural level, permanent color is recommended. When mixed with the proper OYA Lotion, it will lighten the hair up to 4 levels. Demi Permanent will not lighten color. It will maintain the same level and blend gray hair. It also adds depth, richness and intense shine to the hair. Ammonia: The amount of ammonia in OYA Permanent Color is calibrated carefully at each level for precise softening. Ammonia and color molecules are present in permanent color. Ammonia opens the cuticle to allow the color molecules to penetrate. OYA calibrates ammonia content at each level of color. OYA Lotions: Contain oxygen needed to oxidize or develop the artificial color pigments. It aids in penetrating into the cortex to seek the natural melanin to diffuse or lighten. OYA Lotions: (Slide 12) PLAY VIDEO OYA Lotions have two very important jobs: First, to provide the extra oxygen needed to oxidize or develop the artificial color pigments Second, to go beneath the cuticle into the cortex and seek the natural melanin to diffuse or lighten it In this process, the natural melanin inside the cortex is diffused or scattered, making room for the artificial color pigments. It s a simultaneous exchange that happens inside the cortex. The volume of the OYA Lotion used determines the amount of natural melanin to be diffused or lightened. Once this takes place, the OYA artificial color pigments can attach to the diffused natural melanin. You need the natural melanin to support the new color pigment. Use OYA Lotions to activate your color formulas Use the 5 vol. or 1.5% OYA Lotion with the OYA Demi Permanent Color for toning and depositing Use the 10 vol. or 3% OYA Lotion when depositing with OYA Permanent Color 20 vol. or 6% OYA Lotion provides optimum gray coverage and one to two levels of lift with the OYA Permanent Color 5

6 30 vol. or 9% OYA Lotion offers two to three levels of lift with the OYA Permanent Color Work with 40 vol. or 12% OYA Lotion when you need three or more levels of lift with the OYA Permanent Color Covering Gray Hair Process: (Slide 13) OYA Permanent Color is also the best choice for complete gray coverage when the hair is over 50% gray. Weighing your color is very important. It gives you accuracy first, then allows perfect repeat formulations. OYA PERMANENT HAIR COLOR 1. Place the bowl on the scale. 2. Make sure the scale is set to zero. 3. Weigh the OYA Color and OYA Lotion in a bowl on the OYA Scale.* 4. Mix OYA Color until creamy. 5. Apply OYA Color to hair. Ammonia opens the cuticle allowing color molecules to enter the cortex. Oxygen from the OYA Lotion oxidizes the color molecules, allowing it to expand in size during the processing time. This prevents the color molecules from exiting the hair shaft. *Remember your ratios: 1:1-1 part OYA Color and 1 part OYA Lotion or 1:2-1 part OYA High Lift or Lightening Powder and 2 parts OYA Lotion The Complete OYA Gray Coverage Series: (Slide 14) PLAY VIDEO OYA 100% Gray Coverage Series: -0 (N) Natural -00 (N + ) Natural Plus -01 (A) Ash -04 (B) Beige 50% Gray Coverage Series: -5 (G) Gold -6 (M) Mahogany -7 (C) Copper -8 (R) Red -87 (RC) Red Copper -9 (V) Violet 100% gray coverage starts with the OYA -0 (N) Natural Series, which provide complete gray coverage with a neutral tone. 6

7 The shades are: 1-0 Natural Black 3-0 Natural Dark Brown 4-0 Natural Medium Brown 5-0 Natural Light Brown 6-0 Natural Dark Blond 7-0 Natural Medium Blond 8-0 Natural Light Blond 9-0 Natural Extra Light Blond 10-0 Natural Ultra Light Blond The OYA -00 Natural Plus shades are an excellent tool for covering resistant gray hair. The shades are: 5-00 Light Brown Natural Plus 6-00 Dark Blond Natural Plus 7-00 Medium Blond Natural Plus 8-00 Light Blond Natural Plus 9-00 Extra Light Blond Natural Plus The OYA -01 Ash shades can be used to control unwanted warm tones caused by underlying pigment. The shades are: 1-01 Ash Black 3-01 Ash Dark Brown 4-01 Ash Medium Brown 5-01 Ash Light Brown 6-01 Ash Dark Blond 7-01 Ash Medium Blond 8-01 Ash Light Blond 9-01 Ash Extra Light Blond Ash Ultra Light Blond The -04 Beige shades offer up to 100% gray coverage with a warm result. The shades are: 5-04 Beige Light Brown 6-04 Beige Dark Blond 7-04 Beige Medium Blond 8-04 Beige Light Blond 9-04 Beige Extra Light Blond and Beige Ultra Light Blond 7

8 The OYA 50% Gray Coverage Series can be used alone or can be mixed with the 100% Gray Coverage Series to produce exceptional OYA Fashion Shades that cover up to 100% gray beautifully and completely! The shades are: 4-5 Gold Medium Brown 5-5 Gold Light Brown 6-5 Gold Dark Blond 7-5 Gold Medium Blond 8-5 Gold Light Blond 9-5 Gold Extra Light Blond 10-5 Gold Ultra Light Blond The beautiful -6 Mahogany shades include: 3-6 Mahogany Dark Brown 4-6 Mahogany Medium Brown 5-6 Mahogany Light Brown 6-6 Mahogany Dark Blond 7-6 Mahogany Medium Blond and 8-6 Mahogany Light Blond In the -7 Copper shades you ll find: 5-7 Copper Light Brown 6-7 Copper Dark Blond 7-7 Copper Medium Blond 8-7 Copper Light Blond 9-7 Copper Extra Light Blond Moving to the -8 Red shades: 3-8 Red Dark Brown 4-8 Red Medium Brown 5-8 Red Light Brown 6-8 Red Dark Blond 7-8 Red Medium Blond In the -87 Red Copper Shades, we find: 6-87 Red Copper Dark Blond 7-87 Red Copper Medium Blond 8-87 Red Copper Light Blond and 9-87 Red Copper Extra Light Blond The -9 Violet shades offer: 8

9 3-9 Violet Dark Brown 4-9 Violet Medium Brown 5-9 Violet Light Brown 6-9 Violet Dark Blond OYA Shade Series and Corresponding Coverage: The complete OYA Color line for Gray Coverage: 100% Gray Coverage: Mix these corresponding series in a 2:1 ratio, depending on percentage of gray. If it s more than 90% gray, use up to a 1:1 ratio: -0 (N) with Mahogany and Ash Shades (-6 and -9) -04 (B) with the warm shades (-7, -8, -87, -5) -01 (A) with the cool shades when lifting 3 levels (-9) Mix only 1/3 of the Natural + Series into your formulas or up to ½ depending on resistance. -00 (N + ) for resistant gray ONLY -00 (N + ) has the potential to drab color, so only use in formulas for resistant gray hair Lotion: For ultimate gray coverage, use 20 vol. OYA Lotion and process for 45 minutes. 50% Gray Coverage: OYA Fashion Shades are mixed in a 1:1 ratio with OYA Lotion -5 (G) Gold 4-5, 5-5, 6-5, 7-5, 8-5, 9-5, (M) Mahogany 3-6, 4-6, 5-6, 6-6, 7-6, (C) Copper 5-7, 6-7, 7-7, 8-7, (RC) Red Copper 6-87, 7-87, 8-87, (R) Red 3-8, 4-8, 5-8, 6-8, (V) Violet 3-9, 4-9, 5-9, 6-9 Lotion: Use 10, 20, 30, or 40 vol. OYA Lotion with these OYA Fashion Shades. Review and Q&A: (Slide 15) TAKE THE TIME TO ADDRESS ANY QUESTIONS OR CONCERNS. THIS IS AN ESSENTIAL PART OF CLASS TIME AND ALLOWS FOR CLARITY AND 9

10 BETTER UNDERSTANDING OF THE CONTENT. The Basic Color Theory Primary Colors: (Slide 16) PLAY MOVIE Any color is based on the universal law of color. The universal law of color states that mixing different combinations of the three primary colors can create any and all colors. The primary colors are: red, yellow, and blue. Understanding the universal law of color is a prerequisite to success as a colorist. The Basic Color Theory Secondary Colors: (Slide 17) By mixing equal portions of 2 primary colors, you create a secondary color. The 3 secondary colors are: green, orange and violet Blue + yellow = green Yellow + red = orange Red + blue = violet The Basic Color Theory Tertiary Colors: (Slide 18) By mixing a primary color with a secondary color, a tertiary color is created. The tertiary colors are: Yellow-Green Yellow-Orange Red-Orange Red-Violet Blue-Violet Blue-Green The Basic Color Theory Brown or Neutral tones: (Slide 19) Mixing all three primary colors, using equal portions of each will result in brown. In the hair color world, this is called a neutral. 10

11 Brown (or neutral) is where the OYA Natural Series lives. The Basic Color Theory The Color Wheel Opposites: (Slide 20) The color wheel is a tool used to help visualize color theory. The 3 primary colors are arranged around the wheel with their secondary and tertiary colors between them. Colors that appear opposite of each other on the wheel neutralize each other. Violet & yellow neutralized each other. Blue & orange neutralize each other. Green & red neutralize each other. In the color theory world these are called color opposites. The Basic Color Theory Opposites: (Slide 21) Notice that the opposite of a primary color is always a secondary color: Violet (secondary) is the opposite of yellow (primary) Orange (secondary) is the opposite of blue (primary) Green (secondary) is the opposite of red (primary) We know that a secondary color is the combination of 2 primary colors. Example: Orange = Red + Yellow The Basic Color Theory Remembering Opposites: (Slide 22) When mixing a primary color with a secondary color, you are truly mixing all three primary colors together. Mixing opposites example: Violet (secondary) + Yellow (primary) is the same as Blue (primary) + Red (primary) + Yellow (primary) = Brown or Neutral In other words (Primary + Primary + Primary) = Neutral As started before, mixing all primary colors results in brown or neutral. The Basic Color Theory Remembering Opposites: (Slide 23) If you ever need to remember the opposite of a primary color, mix the other two primaries together and you know it s opposite. For example: 11

12 o To remember the opposite of blue, we know the other two primaries are yellow and red. o If we mix yellow and red together we get orange. o Orange is blue s opposite If you ever need to remember the opposite of a secondary color, think of which two primary colors mix together to make that secondary color. Whatever primary color is not in the secondary color is its opposite. For example: o To remember the opposite of green we need to know that blue and yellow make green. Blue and yellow are primaries. The only primary color not in green is red. Red is green s opposite. The Basic Color Theory Warm Tones & Cool Tones: (Slide 24) When using a color brand, it is important to know where each color lives in the universal color wheel. This will allow you to see if the color/shade lives in the cool, warm or neutral part of the color wheel. When coloring hair, first determine where the customer s existing color lives on the wheel. This will dictate whether you will enhance the color or neutralize the existing color. The OYA Color Wheel Underlying Pigment: (Slide 25) When lifting natural hair color, you will expose underlying pigment. If you want to enhance or keep the color WARM, choose a color that lives in the OYA warm tones. If you want to enhance or keep the color COOL, choose a color that lives in the OYA cool tones. Underlying Pigments: (Slide 26) When lightening the hair all color levels have underlying pigment. This OYA color globe shows you what the underlying pigments are on each level and how to neutralize them. The OYA -01 Series exists in the cool tones of this color globe. The OYA -01 Series is designed to neutralize the warmth that appears when exposing the underlying pigments. As you can see, the OYA -01 Series exists within all three cool tones: green, blue, and violet. On this color globe the arrows indicate the exact opposite of the warm tones that are neutralized by their opposite cool tones. These opposites are: Red & Green Yellow & Purple Orange & Blue 12

13 Underlying Pigments Levels: (Slide 27) PLAY MOVIE When lightening natural hair, warm tones called underlying pigments are exposed. These warm tones are different at each natural level and will influence the final color result. The OYA KISS Keep It Simple System: (Slide 28) This universal color wheel shows us where each of the OYA Series live. As you can see, the Red, Mahogany and Ash Series are dispersed over the color wheel. All other series are grouped within a color direction. For example, the -01 Ash Series appears across green, blue, and purple on the OYA Color Globe. However, the -7 Copper Series only appears on orange within the OYA Color Globe. -0 & -00 series: live in the brown tone -01 series: we will go into these on the next slide -04 series: yellow based -5 series: yellow-orange or gold based -6 series: from cool red base in the lower levels to warmer red-orange base in the higher levels -7 series: orange based -8 series: from cool violet red base in the lower levels to warmer red base in the higher levels -87 series: red-orange base -9 series: violet base KISS - The OYA -01 Series: (Slide 29) PLAY VIDEO All color levels have underlying pigments that show up when lightening the hair. The OYA -01 Series shows you what the underlying pigments are on each level and how to counter them. The OYA -01 Series is designed to counter the warmth that comes with the underlying pigments. As you can see, the OYA -01 Series has 3 different color bases: green, blue and violet. This is simply because reds can only be neutralized by green; orange shades can only 13

14 be neutralized by blue; and yellow shades can only be neutralized by violet. Review and Q&A: (Slide 30) TAKE THE TIME TO ADDRESS ANY QUESTIONS OR CONCERNS. THIS IS AN ESSENTIAL PART OF CLASS TIME AND ALLOWS FOR CLARITY AND BETTER UNDERSTANDING OF THE CONTENT. KISS - Coloring Lighter: (Slide 31) This section of the OYA KISS System shows you which formulas to use for: All levels of lift when using the OYA 100% Gray Coverage Series GESTURE TO CHART SECTION All levels of lift when using the OYA Fashion Series for < 50% gray GESTURE TO CHART SECTION All levels of lift when using the OYA Fashion Series for > 50% gray GESTURE TO CHART SECTION KISS - Coloring Darker: (Slide 32) This section of the OYA KISS System shows you which formulas to use for: Darkening 4 levels & down, on pre-lightened or blonde hair GESTURE TO CHART SECTION Tone on tone & darkening for < 50% gray hair GESTURE TO CHART SECTION Tone on tone & darkening for > 50% gray hair GESTURE TO CHART SECTION Tone on tone & darkening for > 90% gray hair GESTURE TO CHART SECTION 100% Gray Coverage: Mix these corresponding series in a 2:1 ratio with the OYA Fashion Series (50% gray), depending on percentage of gray. If it s more than 90% gray, use up to a 1:1 ratio: -0 (N) with Mahogany and Ash Shades (-6 and -9) -04 (B) with the warm shades (-7, -8, -87, -5) -01 (A) with the cool shades when lifting 3 levels (-9) Used alone, these 3 Series provide 100% gray coverage 14

15 Mix only 1/3 of the OYA Natural + Series into your formulas or up to ½ depending on resistance. -00 (N + ) for resistant gray ONLY -00 (N + ) has the potential to drab color, so only use in formulas for resistant gray hair Lotion: For ultimate gray coverage, use OYA 20 vol. Lotion and process for 45 minutes. 50% Gray Coverage: OYA Fashion Shades are mixed in a 1:1 ratio with 10, 20, 30, or 40 vol. OYA Lotion. OYA -00 (N + ) Natural Plus for Resistant Gray Hair: (Slide 33) Resistant gray hair can happen due to the aging process. The production of melanin starts to slow down or stop. The cuticle can become constricted or tight and the cortex can begin to harden resulting in difficult to color gray hair. This type of hair is called resistant gray hair. Not everyone has resistant gray hair. Approximately 1 out of every 25 customers has resistant gray hair. Successfully covering resistant gray hair is when our special gray coverage series, the OYA -00 (N + ) Natural Plus, will come in handy. The OYA -00 (N + ) Natural Plus Series has more pigment and a higher ammonia content, which results in superior gray coverage. OYA -00 (N + ) Natural Plus Advantages: It is more drab to counteract the underlying pigment during the lifting and depositing process More ammonia to help open the cuticle on resistant gray hair More pigment to compensate for the white hair, which has stopped producing melanin OYA -00 (N + ) Natural Plus Series provide ultimate coverage on all levels of resistant gray hair. The OYA -00 (N + ) Natural Plus Series performs at an optimal level when the amount of -00 (N + ) used in the formula is adjusted in accordance with the level of resistance. Always intermix with another OYA Shade for best results Match -00 (N + ) with up to ½ of your 100% Gray Covering Series in your formula OYA Resistant Gray Hair Coverage Made Easy: (Slide 34) 15

16 Virgin Application: 1 out of 25 customers has resistant gray hair -00 (N + ) Natural Plus Series is intended to be used with other OYA Shades Step 1: Target color Step 2: Natural level Step 3: Percentage of gray Regrowth: Mid lengths & ends: 6-87 (RC) Red Copper Dark Blond 4 Natural Medium Brown 90% Resistant 20g g g 6-00 (N + ) + 30g 20 vol. OYA Lotion 30g g g 6-00 (N + ) + 60g 30 vol. OYA Lotion Process: Result: 45 minutes Red Copper Dark Blond The -00 (N + ) Natural Plus Series is a tool for covering resistant gray hair and should not be used alone. Always intermix with another OYA Shade for best results. It contains more pigment and higher ammonia content. OYA Demi Permanent Color Series: (Slide 35) PLAY VIDEO OYA Demi Permanent Shades are ideal to use when you need to maintain, tone or make a subtle color change. They will also cover or blend up to 70% gray hair. You can achieve coverage of gray leaving a highlighted effect on the overall hair color. 70% Gray Blending Series: -0 (N) Natural -01 (A) Ash -04 (B) Beige Fashion Shades: -5 (G) Gold -6 (M) Mahogany -7 (C) Copper -8 (R) Red -87 (RC) Red Copper -9 (V) Violet OYA Clear (0-0): OYA Clear can be used after any color service to lock in color results and add additional shine. You can dilute any color with the addition of clear to your formula. OYA Concentrates: OYA Concentrates neutralize any unwanted tones or enhance warmth by adding into any of your formulas. 16

17 These ammonia-free, non-alkaline, deposit only, NEUTRAL ph colors keep hair in optimum condition and add fabulous shine. Green Tea prevents premature color fading. Sea Kelp maintains hair suppleness and elasticity. This makes them perfect additions to the OYA Portfolio. The creamy, smooth consistency makes it easy to mix and apply. It saturates the hair thoroughly and effectively, moisturizing the hair. Demi Permanent has no ammonia and a lower ph, which allows the color to live on the cuticle and not be permanent. It only affects the outer most part of the cortex and the cuticle. OYA Demi Permanent Color is the best choice to maintain the target color once a target color has been established. These Demi Permanent Shades are ideal to use when you need to maintain, tone or make a subtle color change. OYA Demi Permanent Color will last from touch up to touch up, between applications of OYA Permanent Color. It keeps hair integrity strong and healthy. OYA Demi Permanent Color is used with a dedicated 5 vol. OYA Lotion with a 1:1 ratio. It is gentle and safe for all hair types. Blending Gray Hair Process: (Slide 36) Gray blending is used to soften the first signs of gray hair without altering natural pigments or creating additional warmth. Gray blending leaves little to no line of demarcation or regrowth. This is great for customers that don t want the monthly maintenance of a retouch or any noticeable, drastic change. Men and women who would like a subtle change in masking their gray hair would be a great example. This can be achieved with OYA Demi Permanent Color and 5 vol. OYA Lotion. The result will be a natural gray blending that s very easy to maintain. OYA Demi Permanent color blends gray hair up to 70%. To achieve best results for gray blending, mix -0 (N), -01(A), or -04 (B) in with your target shade. To Soften The Appearance Of Gray Hair: Step 1: Target color 5-0 (N) Natural Light Brown Step 2: Natural level 5 Light Brown Step 3: Percentage of gray More than 50% Formula: 30g OYA Demi Permanent 5-0 (N) + 30g 5 vol. OYA Lotion Process: minutes OYA Harmony Technique: (Slide 37) PLAY VIDEO 17

18 The OYA Harmony Technique is applied when OYA Permanent and OYA Demi Permanent Colors are used together, creating seamless color results, with better color retention, while nourishing hair integrity. 1. Section Hair into four quadrants. a. Use the corresponding shade that works in synergy with OYA Permanent Color utilizing the OYA Harmony Technique. 2. Apply OYA Permanent Color to regrowth using OYA Lotion in a 1:1 ratio a. Begin your OYA Harmony Technique application by outlining each of the 4 quadrants with OYA Permanent Color for optimum control of the entire head. b. Within each quadrant apply OYA Permanent Color in horizontal sections i. Beginning at the nape, create a ¼ inch thick horizontal parting that extends from the center of the nape to behind one ear. ii. Clip the rest of the hair out of the way. iii. Apply the OYA Permanent Color to the regrowth using a small brush. Use precise brush strokes and apply the color thoroughly, evenly and generously. iv. Now complete the opposite back quadrant. Repeat the application in the front two quadrants. 3. Immediately after step two s application, apply OYA Demi Permanent formula to the mid lengths & ends. a. Mix the corresponding OYA Demi Permanent Color with 5 vol. OYA Lotion. Using your large brush, return to your first section and apply the Demi Permanent Color to the mid lengths & ends with slow gentle brush strokes until entire head is complete. b. In the front quadrants, after application, direct the hair back from the face for customer comfort. 4. Process for minutes When development is complete, emulsify, rinse, shampoo and condition the hair. OYA Harmony Technique - Results: (Slide 38) With the OYA Harmony Technique, you will create seamless color results. Once gray coverage is achieved, the OYA Harmony Technique will create added shine and condition to the hair, always leaving a consistent tone. OYA Demi Permanent Color will last from touch up to touch up, between applications of OYA Permanent Color. OYA Harmony Technique helps eliminate the cycle of fading created from using ammonia and developer, time and time again, on the mid lengths & ends. This technique provides long lasting color results while always keeping the hair s integrity strong and healthy. 18

19 OYA Demi Permanent Color is used with a dedicated 5 vol. OYA Lotion in a 1:1 ratio. It is gentle and safe for all hair types. OYA Strand Chart: (Slide 39) PLAY VIDEO DEMO STRAND CHART The compact design makes it the perfect tool for all your color consultations. The color chart is in the shape of an artists palette, which represents the O in OYA. Each OYA Color Series is displayed on its own page with bright colorful lines and shade identifiers. You can easily see each series. You can access the 100% Gray Coverage Series instantly because it is identified by a gray marker on the outer edge of the OYA Strand Chart. The OYA Strand Chart displays both the Permanent and Demi Permanent Shade Series. On the back page are the OYA Concentrates and OYA Lightening Cream. On the very back page is the OYA Natural Level Selector and the OYA Gray % Selector. Over here, we have our 4 shades in the OYA High Lift Blond Series. Our promises and pledges are located on the front page. REMOVE ONE SHADE SERIES INSERT AND EXPLAIN HOW FUCHSIA DOT REPRESENTS OYA PERMANENT COLOR AND TEAL REPRESENTS OYA DEMI PERMANENT COLOR. Each shade is identified by its number and letter combination, plus its full name, which is on the front, back, and on the insert. 3 Steps for Successful OYA Formulations: (Slide 40) PLAY VIDEO Formulating successfully can be the most challenging part of a colorist s day. OYA has simplified successful formulating into 3 easy steps to ensure excellent color results. Let s go through each step: STEP 1: Determine your target shade using the shade inserts within the OYA Strand Chart. Place the Strand Chart up to the customer s complexion to determine the most complementary target shade for their skin tone and eye color. Be sure to fan the shade swatch out, since it may appear darker when it is compact. Together, you can then decide if the color is flattering to your customer. Once you ve chosen the target shade, it s time to create your formula. 3 Steps for Successful OYA Formulations: (Slide 41) 19

20 STEP 2: Determine your natural color level of the customer s hair using the OYA Natural Level Selector. Start by discovering your customer s natural level. Place the OYA Natural Level Selector next to your customer s scalp in two places at the crown and nape. To get the most accurate reading, fan the swatch out and place it directly upon the customer s hair. This will allow a clear visual reading. Remember how important the natural levels of hair are due to the underlying pigment at each level. Being off by one level could alter your final color result. Take your time on this step! It will pay off. 3 Steps for Successful OYA Formulations: (Slide 42) PLAY VIDEO STEP 3: Determine the percentage of gray hair with the OYA Gray % Selector. To provide exceptional gray coverage, the first important step is to identify the percentage of your customer s gray hair. That s where the OYA Gray % Selector comes in. Here s how it works: Simply remove the OYA Gray % Selector from the OYA Strand Chart, place it next to your customer s hair, and move through the percentages until you find the right match. The OYA Gray % Selector has swatches showing 10% gray, 50% gray and 90% gray. Now you have the three elements that you need the target shade, the natural level and the percentage of gray to create the precise formula needed to achieve your desired result. Formulating with OYA Made Easy: (Slide 43) Example Formula: Step 1: Target shade Step 2: Natural level Step 3: Percentage of gray Formula: Process: Result: 6-87 (RC) Red Copper Dark Blond 4 Medium Brown More than 50% gray 20g 6-87 (RC) + 10g 6-04 (B) + 30g OYA 20 vol. Lotion 45 minutes Red Copper Dark Blond The OYA 100% Gray Coverage Series provide effective, shiny, and youthful looking results. You have 4 different series to choose from! 20

21 When you re formulating, remember if the hair is more than 50% gray, mix the 100% gray coverage series with your fashion series color to produce your desired result with complete gray coverage. If it s less than 50% gray, you can formulate with ANY OYA shade and achieve complete gray coverage. Remember, you can also mix the series to create an unlimited number of possibilities. Use 20 vol. OYA Lotion for the very best gray coverage results. Formulating with OYA Made Easy: (Slide 44) Example Formula: Step 1: Target shade Step 2: Natural level Step 3: Percentage of gray Formula: Process: Result: 5-9 (V) Violet Light Brown 4 Medium Brown More than 50% gray 20g 5-9 (V) + 10g 5-01 (A) + 30g 20 vol. OYA Lotion 45 minutes Violet Light Brown Review and Q&A: (Slide 45) TAKE THE TIME TO ADDRESS ANY QUESTIONS OR CONCERNS. THIS IS AN ESSENTIAL PART OF CLASS TIME AND ALLOWS FOR CLARITY AND BETTER UNDERSTANDING OF THE CONTENT. Emulsifying OYA Color: (Slide 46) PLAY VIDEO Slowly add warm water Work fingers in a circular motion Emulsify entire head Rinse and shampoo Rinse and condition After the development time, slowly add warm water and gently work fingers in a circular motion around the hairline. As more water is added, emulsify the color into a light lather and rinse until the water runs clear. Finish with OYA Shampoo, Treatment and Leave-In Conditioner. 21

22 Tools: (Slide 47) GESTURE TO POWERPOINT AND/OR TOOLS IN PERSON The tools used will make a difference in the color result. OYA has chosen the best in design. OYA Tools include: Brushes Small brush for precision and smaller surface areas Large brush for applications on larger surface areas Bowls designed to support your brush properly Bottles accurate and easy to squeeze Scales lightweight and easy to read Timers small and accurate Capes large design for better coverage Aprons designed to protect more of your clothing Precise measurements and timing are the secrets to perfect color. If you don t combine the correct amount of OYA Color and OYA Lotion, you will not get the results that you expect. That s why OYA recommends using a scale to measure all of your color formulas. While the bowl is on the scale, be sure the scale reads zero. DEMO SCALE Download the OYA Colorist App: (Slide 48) iphone You will need to know your Apple ID password 1. Locate the App Store on your home screen and open 2. Touch the search icon at the bottom of the screen 3. Touch the search bar at the top of the screen and type in oyacolorist touch oyacolorist when it appears in your search results 4. An image of the OYA Colorist App will appear in the search result touch the FREE button (It may also appear as a cloud icon with an arrow pointing down) 5. The free button will turn into a green INSTALL button touch it to begin downloading 6. You will then be asked to type in your Apple ID but don t worry the app is free 22

23 7. Once downloading is complete the INSTALL button will become a OPEN button touch it to open the app and begin formulating.!! Download the OYA Colorist App: (Slide 49) ipad: You will need your Apple ID password 1. Locate the App Store on your home screen and open 2. Touch the search icon at the top right of the screen 3. Before searching you must change the settings from ipad to iphone in the upper left corner indicated in the picture below 4. Touch the search bar at the top of the screen and type in oyacolorist 5. The OYA Colorist App will appear touch the icon or a small cloud with an arrow pointing down to begin the downloading process 23

24 6. The OYA Colorist App will open into its own window for downloading touch the small cloud again it will download then touch OPEN to begin formulating.! Download the OYA Colorist App: (Slide 50) Android download instructions: Locate the Play Store icon on your home screen and open Touch the APPS menu at the top left of the screen Touch the search icon and type in oya colorist The OYA Colorist App will appear touch it to continue Touch install Touch permission Once it has downloaded successfully touch open to begin formulating 24

25 Review and Q&A: (Slide 51) TAKE THE TIME TO ADDRESS ANY QUESTIONS OR CONCERNS. THIS IS AN ESSENTIAL PART OF CLASS TIME AND ALLOWS FOR CLARITY AND BETTER UNDERSTANDING OF THE CONTENT. REVIEW KEY CONCEPTS OF THE CLASS AND OFFER SUPPORT TO NEWER COLORISTS. Course Overview: What is OYA? The OYA Circle of Success OYA Technology Meets Nature Structure of hair Hair texture OYA covering gray hair essentials OYA Lotions The complete OYA Gray Coverage Series The Basic Color Theory Underlying Pigment The OYA Color Globe- KISS System OYA -00 (N + ) Series OYA Demi Permanent Color Series OYA Harmony Technique OYA Strand Chart OYA 3 Steps for Successful OYA Formulations OYA Tools The OYA Colorist App Circle of Success with OYA: (Slide 52) NOW THAT THE SALON IS USING OYA COLOR AND PRODUCTS, OFFER THEM THE NEXT LOGICAL CLASS FOR THEIR NEEDS: Blonds and Sunshimmers Reds and Brunettes Corrective Color REMIND THE CLASS THAT THERE IS ALSO 24/7 EDUCATION AVAILABLE ON OYABEAUTY.COM OYA Hotline: (Slide 53) OYA.411 ( ) Monday-Friday: 9am - 5pm PST OYABEAUTY.COM 25

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