Available online at ScienceDirect. Procedia Manufacturing 3 (2015 ) Customized Wardrobe: Clothing according to user

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1 Aville online t ScienceDirect Procedi Mnufcturing 3 (2015 ) th Interntionl Conference on Applied Humn Fctors nd Ergonomics (AHFE 2015) nd the Affilited Conferences, AHFE 2015 Customized Wrdroe: Clothing ccording to user Crl Moris*, Ginni Montgn Ciud, Fculdde de Arquitectur, Ru Sá Nogueir, Polo Universitário, Alto d Ajud, Liso, Portugl Astrct Ecologicl nd ethicl innovtions, s well s new methodologies tht meet the rel needs of consumers or users re very importnt for fshion ecome more sustinle. However, the individul is, in the most cses, the min element for tht. Generlly the consumer throws wy his grment not ecuse it hs low qulity or it is out of fshion ut rther hving filed reltionship etween him nd the product. This proposl work is n ide which plns to reduce the fshion product osolescence, vluing nd mximizing ech individul's wrdroe nd showing how humn fctors cn e helpful in ll process. It will mke stronger the effective reltionship etween consumers nd grment ecuse they will e le to construct nd deconstruct their clothing, ccording to their personl tste s well s to their physicl type or their geneticlly determined entity, their somtotype. Inserting modulr upgrdes in different pieces of clothing it will llow constnt wrdroe renewl, providing the exchnge of deteriorted components, colors, mterils, shpes nd silhouettes. Mny prts cn disssemle or not, like puzzle, nd they will depend on the occsion in which they re going to e used, or even from the physicl type of who will wer them. Therefore, for their chievement, it will e need performing prcticl tests in piece of grment to verify the wy of sewing it nd to study its usility in different physicl types The The Authors. Authors. Pulished Pulished y y Elsevier Elsevier B.V. B.V. This is n open ccess rticle under the CC BY-NC-ND license ( Peer-review Peer-review under under responsiility responsiility of of AHFE AHFE Conference Conference. Keywords: Consumer; Costumizing clothes; Somtotypes in fshion; Physicl types; Sustinle fshion design 1. Introduction Fst fshion clothing hs een chrcterized s chronic nd ineffectul model system cusing "overconsumption" nd getting ruish genertor. Socil, environmentl nd economic impcts re tking plce in the * Corresponding uthor. E-mil ddress: crlot.moris@gmil.com The Authors. Pulished y Elsevier B.V. This is n open ccess rticle under the CC BY-NC-ND license ( Peer-review under responsiility of AHFE Conference doi: /j.promfg

2 Crl Moris nd Ginni Montgn / Procedi Mnufcturing 3 ( 2015 ) supply chin ecuse mny items of clothing re creted will not e purchsed or if there will hppen they will lso esily e discrded. The systemtic nd successive chnges in Fshion process tht re dopted t different times nd different speeds, let designers e on the front side to ccept ll chnges. At the sme time they must crete products, in the opposite direction, with ethiclly conscious pthwys nd stimulte the good sense for future consumers nd users. According to some surveys which were mde in 2011, the ctive femle people hd the hit of uying t lest 1 or 2 pieces of clothing from the ltest trend. Their most importnt requirements to uy clothing were personl tste nd necessity, eing visile growing concern out the rtionliztion of grments they didn t need effectively 1. These results fit to the trget segmenttion theory tht hs een nlyzed with personlity vriles nd lifestyles preferences, insted of demogrphics vlues 2. However, fshion retil still offers gret mount of unwnted products insted of improving their services, especilly in personlized products sles, s customized ones. Introduce Humn fctors, either in humn or interction re, to improve empthy etween product nd potentil consumer is sustinle wy to minimize some impcts re relised in the life cycle of fshion products. There re points in the lifecycle where interventions cn e mde to ecome the werer wrdroe more sustinle. Designer will mke decisions to hve etter consequences either in life cycle or in user nd the consumer will hve est plnned end-of-life options, insted of disposl items esily (Fig.1 nd1). Fig. 1. () The Life Cycle of Fshion nd principl points where interventions cn e mde: Designer nd Consumer/User ; () The Wrdroe chnges with etter sustinle solutions etween designer nd consumer/werer collortion. On the other hnd, clothing is usully mde for stereotype odies nd neither fit well for ech individul physicl type nor get etter his ppernce. So, collortion work will ecome oth designer nd werer more engged with needs of ech other. Designer cretes less tiring products nd the user/werer will e le to prticipte in the construction of his customized clothing. 2. Ojectives Remke nd rethink the wy to project, produce nd consume clothing hs een reserch nd nlyzed mong cdemics nd professionls. The more personlized goods designer will e creting, more long-lsting items will hve used. So, this proposl is rethought work will show how essentil fetures of humn ody cn e useful in creting more sustinle wrdroe. Optimizing the wrdroe lifetime does not gurntee reduction of resources ut it cn promote other type of user ehvior, let him think out the clothing use nd its functionlity or even s the necessity to cquire it. The consumer knows tht not ll types of grments re used in the sme wy ecuse some of them hve longer lifespn thn others ut insted of discrding some items he proly my keep in nd reuse them lter. Moreover, this proposl will prove tht is possile to crete sustinle nd trnsformle wrdroe in ccordnce with consumer s physicl type, chnging his imge nd hiding esthetic spects less eutiful too.

3 5816 Crl Moris nd Ginni Montgn / Procedi Mnufcturing 3 ( 2015 ) Stte of the rt 3.1. Customizing grments Mny requirements must e considered so tht the grment cn e dynmic, trnsformle nd dptle in different occsions nd with different users. The customizing process involves the mss production of individully personlized goods nd services. The choice of the products is often selected y the client during rnge of design proposls were presented in digitl pltform 3. This E-System Design is more dvntgeous to producer thn the consumer nd doesn t seem to work well in Fshion products ecuse the individul, specil the one with greter involvement in fshion, neither touch the products nd feel textures nor put them on efore the purchse. Therefore, offering customized products in own rel sles points would e n option to solve the gp of consumer disstisfction from the purchse online or from other locl e-commerce system. The process of tht customized clothing production would e different from the conventionl one, once the grment need to e dressed up nd chnged t tht moment, ccording to the tste (nd physicl ppernce) of the costumer. The strtegies to mke it possile cn e multifunctionl techniques s modulr concept nd do-it-yourself, contriuting for components chnging Humn fctors According some reserchers, humn fctors re chrcterized into three res, Humn/ Individul, Interction/ Interfce nd Mngement/ Orgniztion [4]. This proposl focuses firstly on the first re, especilly in humn ntomy; once the wrdroe will e creted for ody types of different users. The Interction nd the Mngement res will only hve een showed in future evlution when werers hve dressed up their clothes nd interct with them in the retil shop. Therefore, since Willim H. Sheldon [5], introduced the concept of somtotypes, nutritionists, exercise physiologists nd even doctors strted to use tht for helping themselves in projects plnning. Heth-Crter 6 developed evlution methods to quntify the loclized ft long the ody of ech individul to identify him etter. But oth reserchers clssify people in three physicl types: Ectomorphic, Mesomorphic nd Endomorphic (Fig.2). Ectomorphic people re tll nd thin, with little ody ft nd little muscle too. They generlly hve difficulty in gining weight nd muscle. Mesomorphic people re more thletic, hve good one formtion nd n upright posture; they gin nd lose weight without much effort. Endomorphic people hve rounded shpes nd lot of ody ft; they lso hve muscles ut they my increse weight esily. Fig. 2. () Body silhouettes (Adpted from Stunkrd et l., 1983); () Three sic types of humn ody. Adpted from Sheldon, [5].

4 Crl Moris nd Ginni Montgn / Procedi Mnufcturing 3 ( 2015 ) Mny of us hve fetures of two or even three somtotypes. The most widely known re Ecto-endomorph comintion nd Endo-Ectomorph comintion. The ecto-endomorph comintion is chrcterized in "Per shpe", with slender upper ody nd lrge ft storge in the hips nd thighs. And the Endo-Ectomorph is chrcterized in "Apple shpe", with ft upper ody nd slender shpe t the ottom. Recent studies found tht even in ctive people, there is prevlence of the endomorph physicl mong in femles, especilly since the ge of 29 7 which mens the physicl ody cn chnge over the women s life-course. In ddition to tht there re other studies connected to Anthropometry nd Fshion Consulting tht presents other peculirities regrding humn figure. The designer nd writer Pezzolo [8] dds more feminine ody disproportions (Fig. 3) chrcterizing them s: ft; ulky hips nd slender trunk; ig chest; short rest; short trunk long trunk; droopy shoulders; prominent elly; lck of uttocks; short legs; thin legs; ig legs; low; high. Fig. 3. Set of illustrtions produced y Anit Ljung for femles odies chrcteristics, ccording to Dinh Pezzolo [8]. Otherwise to the physicl odies type theory we lso consider the mesures of the humn ody, once they re proportionl mong different prts. Vitruvius (~ BC) [9] hve lredy hd stted tht the ody's hrmony ws gurnteed y its inclusion into perfect circle or squre nd currently mny studied systems of mesures hve other similrities. Wtching the stndrd mesures tle of the femle figure nd its proportions led us to identify tht (Fig.4). Fig. 4. () Europen mesures of stndrd femle ody (retrieved in () Body mesures in cm. (retrieved in The stndrdized ergonomics mesures for femle ody rnges from 32 to 52 in Europen numers s exposed in figure 4 nd checking the tle we cn see the similrity etween some dimensions such s the rest mesure nd hip mesure or the rm length nd insem mesure An essentil wrdroe Some writers with experience in fshion consulting nd teching s Tim Gunn [10], Rit Wilson [11] or Mry Lou Andre [12] vlue specil items of clothing. They re fundmentl pieces (the sics tht generl people like wering) nd here re chrcterized y the "lck dress", the "polo shirt", the "t-shirt", the "twin-set", the "lzer",

5 5818 Crl Moris nd Ginni Montgn / Procedi Mnufcturing 3 ( 2015 ) the "jens", the "trench-cot", "lck pnts", "white shirt", the "skirt", the "dy dress", the "trining suit", nd others like "sweter", "top", the "crdign", the "jcket", "shorts", "leggings", "cpe", "pullover", etc (Fig.5). According to Bldini [13] some of these clothes cn e used in everydy life or in sleepwer or prty clothes. Its ility to tke on different menings with miniml chnges depends on the design tool during its conception. Thus, designer cn reuild the sic concept of pttern mking with mny elements of cretion such s the "silhouette" (Fig.5), "proportion nd line", "function", "detils", "color", "mterils", "finishes", etc [14]. Fig. 5. () The grments which would e importnt in wrdroe; () Silhouettes cn chnge visul perceptions of odies. 4. Proposl: customized wrdroe Considering the review we my sk: If there re severl experts who hve sed on the humn ody s morphology to improve the performnce of ech individul why not working from his own wrdroe to improve its ppernce too? Thinking out sustinle wy to design fshion nd to crete multifunctionl wrdroe ccording to the ody s user let us rethink out the wy nd why people use their clothes. In ddition to thinking out the humn ody we hve to go ck for its uying criteri dt. According to users, the mjority of individuls do not considered innovtive when they choose clothing. They prefer using forml clothing for professionl life nd vrying in ccessories rrngements 15 or even wering sic clothing during the week [16]. Thus, insted of plnning gret mount of clothing tht would e quickly used nd discrded, we propose n ide to mximize the ctul sic wrdroe t the sme time people would stisfy their needs. To mke tht it must e plnned pieces of grment le to e trnsformed in multifunctionl pieces. Therefore the metolism of the future wrdroe will chnge y the sustinle werer tht will hve more personlized products nd will not disposl items esily, keeping trnsformle grments for much longer thn conventionl ones Grment customiztion methodologies Multi-functionlity or Do-it-yourself re oth methodologies ville to e included in the rel grment customiztion. The first ecuse it works on trnsformle grment llowing prts exchnge nd the other one ecuse it promotes good reltionship etween product nd costumer. The multifunctionl grment rose to fill some wnted requirements in the new lifestyles nd mny designers of super modern clothing hve dopted modulr system of dressing in n ttempt to simplify the complexities nd unify the discontinuities of modern urn life 17. Quinn ttests tht the trditionl wrdroe does not follow the chnging of socil nd culturl needs, defending clothing design sed on chngele chrcteristics 18. He even differentites three types of trnsformle clothing: 1) the clothing which is only chnged y its surfce (ppernce or texture); 2) The grments tht tkes two or more design possiilities (reversile pieces); nd 3) grment tht cn e converted in multiple designs including ojects ( suitcse nd ht t the sme time for exmple).

6 Crl Moris nd Ginni Montgn / Procedi Mnufcturing 3 ( 2015 ) In DIY (Do-it-yourself) design process plys socil role where the costumer ecomes designer too. DIY hs evolved since the products nd services incresed sustntilly, solving economiclly mny fmilies lives. In fshion it ecomes known with Burd mgzine eing useful for household ldies tht strted themselves to e the fmily dressmkers [19]. Ellen Lupton [20] wrote tht DIY hs developed due to three mjor fctors: 1) The increse of people who hve chieved high levels of wreness in Design; 2) the ccess to pulishing tools Do-it-yourself; nd 3) the desire to mjority of consumers wnt to e less dependent of rnds nd preferring crete their own purposes. The concept of "Design for user prticiption" hs lso to e point of interest for trders nd retilers, s wy to get customer loylty 21. According to Cldwell nd Workmn s reserch [22] fric retilers hd elieved their consumers hd een interested in news technologies for custom ptterns mking, s the computer-ided design (CAD), "ody scnning" nd intelligent systems. Some exmples re "MeJens" which offers customiztion of Jens, the "Nike-ID" for the production of tennis, or even tggergs to uild our own gs ut ll of them works on digitl pltform. 5. Methodology In the new Design projects the suject of study hs no longer just the im product esthetics ut the function nd customer stisfction [23]. In fshion design process there re some elements relly importnt s the silhouette or the proportion of grment, which their comintion cn crete infinite nd diverse possiilities. However not ll of them re pproprited to ll kind of odies. In ddition to tht, people uy items to hve good ppernce nd look elegntly [24] so we strt to nlyze the three somtotypes (ectomorph, endomorph nd mesomorph odies) to verify the silhouette which fit etter for ech one (Fig.6). After tht we will consider the proportion nd line of sic grments to vlidte their trnsformle potentil in prcticl working. Fig. 6. () A Squre silhouette cn chnge visul perceptions of odies through modulr systems; () Exmples of Cutting silhouettes. Connecting the concepts of clothing uilding to the user s physicl shpe it is possile to help the werer to get etter his own visul perception t the sme time ech grment is le to ecome longer or wider or even e different in other piece, comining with other elements from other pieces (Fig.6) Prcticl working Trnsformle grment is usully mde y trditionl pttern mking ut it cn lso e produced through threedimensionl pttern mking (drpping). In the trditionl concept which clothing chnge removle mteril, the seprtion of pieces or lyers re essentilly done y zippers, rions or uttons ut there re clothes tht doesn t need to tke off pieces. They cn e produced in extensile mteril to cover different odies nd tke more thn one design possiility hving severl menings in the sme product (s skirt nd dress t the sme time). In oth

7 5820 Crl Moris nd Ginni Montgn / Procedi Mnufcturing 3 ( 2015 ) processes there is wide rnge of possiilities to dress up nd the werer cn choose comintion tht he/she wnt or need. Hving the fundmentl concern to rtionlize clothing in wrdroe (through the vriety of connections nd disconnections of prts), the pplied methodology will e sed on sketches nd prototypes from locks of sic grments (fig.7) in order to crete well-mde multifunctionl clothes (fig.7). The prcticl working requires experimenttion in ech lock (in this cse the Europen numer of 36) to know how cutting lines of ech item is going individully to join with nother one. Fig. 7. () Smples of skirt lock, pnts lock, odice lock nd sleeve lock; () A skirt nd short smple results from prcticl working. By removle verticl pnels it is possile to chnge texture, color, function nd silhouette. Considering the ffinity of mesures were exposed efore (in Fig. 4) s length knee nd insem mesure or rm length nd insem mesure it is possile to uild different functions in one piece (Fig.8) or uild different pieces of grment with sme component (Fig.8)[25]. Figure 8: () Prcticl working plying with length knee nd insem mesure; () Prcticl working plying with rm length nd insem mesure. These smples re the first grments will e trnsformed. Different types of finishes re testifying to llow werer chnge colors, ptterns, shpes, lengths nd heights.

8 Crl Moris nd Ginni Montgn / Procedi Mnufcturing 3 ( 2015 ) Conclusions Being interesting the mesures ffinity etween the humn ody nd the construction of trnsformle clothing since there is no scientific reserch in this re, we do not consider this work finished. Designing for chnging shpes let designer cquire knowledge of rdiclly clothing construction t the sme time he hs to recognize the cretive ilities nd limits (physicl nd psychologicl) of the end werer. According to the review, the possiility of constructing different silhouettes or textures wherein ech grment is le to ecome longer or wider or even e different in other piece clssifies this type of clothing s timeless design nd much more sustinle thn conventionl clothing. It nswers to the tiredness of sic product lso feturing gret verstility of styles nd wys to wer. In ddition to tht it shows the importnce of repir services in stores to let consumers replce only worn components insted of uying whole piece of grment. Although the purpose of this work is to crete complete wrdroe, which components will ccommodte the wist, height, line of the werer we only testified smple (the sic skirt tht chnge for shorts through removle verticl pnels y zippers). We relize tht my cuse interest in future werer y the ility to e chnged ccording to his tste nd to his physicl ody ut techniclly is hrd pproch which doesn t work for ll types of frics or emellishments. One of the gretest difficulties of this kind of clothing is not how it trnsforms ut rther how the qulittive detils re mde for good performnce. Acknowledgements We thnk to CIAUD- Center of Reserch in Architecture nd Design y invittion nd services t this work presenttion. References [1, 16, 24] Moris, C., C. Crvlho, nd C. Broeg, A design tool to identify nd mesure the profile of sustinle conscious fshion costumer in Autex th World Textile Conference t ENSISA. 2011: Mulhouse, Frnce. p [2] Solomon, M., Os segredos d mente dos consumidores. 1ª ed. 2009, V. N. Fmlicão: Centro Atlântico, Ld [3] Ulrich, P.V., L.J. Anderson-Connell, nd W. Wu, Consumer co-design of pprel for mss customiztion. Journl of Fshion Mrketing nd Mngement, (4). [4] Montgn, G. nd C. Moris, Fshion design nd grment performnce: Humn fctors in fshion design projects, in 5th Interntionl Conference on Applied Humn Fctors nd Ergonomics. 2014: Krkow, Polnd. [5] Sheldon, W.H., S.S. Stevens, nd W.B. Tucker, The Vrieties of Humn Physique. 1940, New York: Hrper nd Brothers. [6] Heth-Crter, C. J.E.L., nd B.H. Heth, Somtotyping - Development nd Applictions. 1990: Cmridge University Press. [7] Almeid, A., et l., Somtotype nlysis of physiclly ctive individuls, in J Sports Med Phys Fitness p [8] Pezzolo, D.B., Mod Fácil 2007, Cscis: Quinto Selo Edições. [9] Bhr, B. (2009) Beyond Drwing Bsics: Proving Leonrdo's Theories on Humn Proportions. rtistdily [10 ] Gunn, T. nd A. Clhoun, Tim Gunn's Fshion Bile: The fscinting history of everthing in your closet. 2012, New York: Gllery Books, Simon & Schuster, Inc. [11] Wilson, R., Age-Proof Wrdroe Bsics, in The Oprh Winfrey Show O. Winfrey, Editor [12] Mry Lou Andre (2004) [13] Bldini, M., A Invenção d Mod - As Teoris, os Estilists, Históri. 2006, Liso: Ediçoes 70 Ltd. 143 [14] (Seivewright, 2007) [15] Cntist, I., et l., Vlues nd Fshion Consumption of Working Women in Europe, in 7Th Interntionl Congress Mrketing Trends 2008: Venice. p. 27. [17] Bolton, A., The Supermodern Wrdore. 2002, London: V&A Pulictions. [18] (Quinn, 2008, p. 117) [19] Nunes, R. nd C. Crvlho, Um nov estrtégi de design de produto vird pr o Fç você mesmo - Fundmentos, plicilidde e consequêncis num futuro socil sustentável, in Fculdde de Arquitectur. 2010, Universidde Técnic Liso. [20] Lupton, E., Do it yourself. 2006, New York: Princeton Architecturl Press. [21] Pine, B.J., Mss Customiztion: the New Frontier in Business Competition. 1993, Boston, MA: Hrvrd Business School Press. [22] Cldwell, L.F. nd J.E. Workmn, Retilers' perceptions of the effects of grment complexity on interest in customized ptterns". Clothing nd Textiles Reserch Journl, (3): p [23] Vezzoli, C. nd E. Mnzini, Design for Environmentl Sustinility. 2008: Springer-Verlg London Limited. [25] Moris, C., A Sustentilidde no Design de Vestuário, in Fculdde de Arquitectur. 2013, Universidde de Liso: Liso. p. 216