3 Editorial. 10 News 32 INGREDIENTS. 32 Cosmetagora: New anti-ageing actives and more 36 Ingredients news 37 Formulations: Face & colour 38 MARKETING

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1 Contents COSSMA 1 2/ Do mineral UV filters meet the challenge? 20 A new tool helps to develop new sun care products more efficiently 3 Editorial 10 MARKETS & COMPANIES 10 News 12 GO FUTURE: SUN CARE 12 Dennis Zlotnik, Hallstar: Mineral UV filters meet the challenge 16 Dr Nora Schiemann, IMCD: Holistic sun care 20 Uli Osterwalder, Anne Janssen and Alex Schlifke, DSM: New tool simplifies development 25 Michelle Strutton, Mintel: International launches 32 Cosmetagora 2018: launchpad for interesting new anti-ageing actives and more 26 Interview with Dr William Johncock, Symrise: More than just UV protection 28 Interview with Dr Markus Schwind, BASF: Enhanced formulation convenience 30 Interview with Astrid Wulfinghoff, Covestro: Advanced sun care 32 INGREDIENTS 32 Cosmetagora: New anti-ageing actives and more 36 Ingredients news 37 Formulations: Face & colour 38 MARKETING 38 Thomas Keiser, IKW, Christoph Knoke, IKW: The triumph of facial masks 42 Imogen Matthews, Consultant to In-Cosmetics: Trends in natural beauty 4 l COSSMA 1 2 I

2 Contents COSSMA 1 2/ How did s C&T and detergent market turnover develop in 2017? 46 Sven Gehrig: Has the new ISO for natural cosmetics hit the mark? 45 Star of the Month: Wearable UV sensor 46 Sven Gehrig, Wala: ISO Has it hit the mark? 48 SPOTLIGHT: SAMPLE PACKAGING 48 Samples: Perfect minis 52 PACKAGING 52 PCD: Elegant options 55 Packaging news 56 PERSONALITIES & PROFILES 48 See what is trending in the realm of smarter sampling 56 Interview with Dr Christian Rimpler, Rimpler Cosmetics: A passion for sophisticated skin care 59 People 60 SERVICES 8 Download List 60 BEAUTY FORUM LEIPZIG: Trade show time in Leipzig 61 Events Diary 62 Suppliers Guide 65 Advertisers Index 66 Masthead Page 66 Preview Front cover picture: Rimpler Cosmetics 6 l COSSMA 1 2 I

3 GO FUTURE: SUN CARE Today multifunctional products with SPF combine a large number of benefits Dr Nora Schiemann, Regional Technical Manager, IMCD of titanium dioxide 7. When sunscreens are easily distributed, the product s efficacy is maximised. LexFilm Sun from Inolex homogeneously disperses sunscreens in products. It combines a film former (Polyester-7) in an emollient (Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate), which creates waterproof sunscreen films on the skin. Actives for protection against UV damage Peptides are commonly known as wonder drugs in skin cosmetics, even in sun care. Survixyl IS from Ashland has been clinically tested in protecting the epidermal layers against UV-induced damage. Chronogen from Ashland improves the natural self-protection of the skin and the regeneration of DNA after UV damage. Ashland s Caspaline 14 reduces TEWL and the amount of damaged cells during sun exposure. Protection against UV-induced erythema can be provided by Even effective sun blockers don t provide 100 % protection SUN CARE goes far beyond tan supplements Multifunctional products with SPF combine several benefits Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate from Maruzen. Vital ET from Ashland significantly reduces skin irritation and red spots. Telosense from Ashland protects against UVB-induced damage and increases skin moisture. VC-IP from Nikkol penetrates the skin and protects against UVA and UVB. It supresses melanogenesis, even under chronic UV exposure. Zinc-Glycine Complex from Nikkol helps to activate the protective mechanisms of cells such as the suppression of intracellular ROS-expression and increase of metallothionein (MT). Water and salt water resistance Some formulation technologies help to create water-resistant formulations that can be compatible even with salt water. Typical sunscreen formulations create hydrophobic films on the skin, which can cause an undesirable whitening effect in contact with water. Ashland s Hydrosheer concept avoids this undesirable effect. Its specialty polymers form clear films in the presence of water, e.g. Advantage Plus. It can balance the dielectric constant of ester-based emollients. Similarly, a combination of Allianz OPT and crosslinked FlexiThix polymer works in gels. In emulsions, a combination of a thickener such as Carbomer together with a complex emulsifier can create a lamellar gel, e.g. ProLipid. Emollients and film formers Ingredients that form protective layers on the skin and make them soft are called emollients. Film formers enhance these properties. Innovative concepts include compatibility with nature. Lexfilm Sun, a compound from Inolex, contains the emollient LexFeel 7. Additionally, there is Vellaplex, a natural film former that is readily biodegradeable and is delivered with a Cosmos Certificate. Silicones such as Dimethicone from Wacker provide skin feel, good spreadability and long-lasting coverage. For natural cosmetics, there are alternatives, reflecting at least the skin feel Common name trade name %/use % Maxium UVA UVB Homosalate Escalol HMS 2 10% 10% (EU, JP) 15% (US, AUS) x Benzophenone-3 (Oxybenzone) Escalol % 10% (EU, AUS), 6% (US), 5% (JP) x x Butyl Methoxydibenzoyl-methane (Avobenzone)* Escalol % 5% (EU, AUS), 3% (US), 10% (JP) x Octocrylene (Octocrilene) Escalol % 10% (EU, US, JP) x Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate ( Octinoxate) Escalol % 10% (EU, AUS), 7.5% (US), 20% (JP) x Ethylhexyl Salicylate (Octisalate) Escalol % 5% (EU, US, AUS), 10% (JP) x Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA ( Padimate O) Escalol % 8% (EU, US, AUS), 10% (JP) x Benzophenone-4 (Sulisobenzone) Escalol % 5% (EU), 10% (US, AUS, JP) x x Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (Bemotrizinol) A mini tool box to combine the different UV-filters. Escalol S 1 3% 10% (EU, AUS), 3% (JP) x x 18 l COSSMA 1 2 I 2018

4 5 good reasons for reading COSSMA! Discover today your competitors plans for tomorrow! COSSMA Formulations, industry trends, market data COSSMA Interactive E-paper 3 4 COSSMA Search and download from our archives COSSMA Free classifi ed advert for subscribers COSSMA 10 issues a year 192 Euros () 198 Euros (outside ) Order today, at or via the hotline: +49 (0) Health and Beauty GmbH Ludwig-Erhard-Str. 2, Ettlingen, Phone: +49 (0) Fax: +49 (0) customer@health-and-beauty.com PATENTED SEALING WITH MAGNETISM The original magnetic dropper sales@virospack.com

5 INGREDIENTS Face & colour Formulations Do you want to provide precisely the face and colour care solutions consumers are looking for? Then find food for thought in our broad selection of face care formulations afrom the suppliers we ve listed. You can download the details of each formulation free of charge at *Additional information can be found on the Internet see download panel photo: Africa Studio, Shutterstock.com Hydrating Souffle Facial Cream AkzoNobel Re-Fresh Energy Burst Cream Gel Ashland GG Genius Glow Cream Azelis Youthful Radiance Enhancer BASF Superfruit Sorbet Biesterfeld Spezialchemie The Purist Hydrogel C.H. Erbslöh Phytobiotic Solar Self-defense CLR Anti-Pollution Gel Cream Croda Cosmos Compliant Foundation DKSH Soft Matte Lipstick Scarlet No.9 Eckart Altana Liquid Foundation Estenity Natural Night Cream Aloe Evonik Dr. Straetmans Multi-Botanical Facial Cleansing Oil Floratech Natural Red Smooth Lip Balm GfN Selco Lift Me Gel Cream HallStar My Perfect Foundation IFF Lucas Meyer Remedy Cream Jeen International Corp Revitalizing Clear Serum Kobo Products Bronzer Stick KosterKeunen Cherry Plumping Lip Stick NCD Active Concealer Nordmann, Rassmann Extra Moisturizing Face Cream Protameen Chemicals DOWNLOADS Additional information at Your access codes for January/February: User name: cossma2 Password: sun Natural Primer Roelmi HPC Facial Scrub With Starch, Rice and Kiwi SACI-CFPA Nourishing Nail Bath Oil Sederma Soft Cream with AloeVera Beads Worlée Serum for Stressed Skin Zschimmer & Schwarz In the March issue, we will be focusing on products for skin-cleansing products. In our April issue, formulations for masks, treatments and exfoliants will take centre stage. All of the information published here has been carefully assembled. Neither the publishers nor the developers of these formulations can accept responsibility for their safety or accuracy. ADVERTISEMENT l 37

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7 SERVICES Trade show time in Leipzig Events Find out what to expect from this year s 8 th BEAUTY FORUM LEIPZIG. This fascinating event, showcasing the latest innovations in all areas of professional beauty, takes place on April 21 st and 22 nd at the Leipzig Messe. N N Approximately 390 exhibiting companies and brands will display their latest developments, products and treatments in all fields of professional beauty at BEAUTY FORUM LEIPZIG. At the same time, two certified scientific congresses provide a targeted educational offering on top. The 4 th FACTS AND FIGURES What? 8 th BEAUTY FORUM LEIPZIG When? April Where? Leipzig Messe, Hall 2 Organiser? Health and Beauty Anti-Ageing Congress, which takes place on Saturday, April 21 st, has been certified with 3 further training points by Saxony s National Chamber of Pharmacies. The 10 th Podology Congress, which takes place on Sunday, April 22 nd will be focussing on the diabetic foot syndrome. This event has been certified with a total of 5 further training points by Podo, Saxony s national association. Targeted education Furthermore, a broad range of workshops on a fascinating array of topics will be held, too. And in addition to all these trade show and educational options, there will be a large number of entertaining shows and suspense-packed championships to enjoy. Q For discount tickets, please turn to Don t miss the 4 th Anti-Ageing Congress with its targeted scientific offering AM photo: photos: Pauline Fabry 60 l COSSMA 1 2 I

8 SERVICES FAIRS, CONFERENCES 2018 AND SEMINARS WHEN? WHAT? WHERE? WHO? Swiss SCC Davos Swiss SCC Winterseminar Switzerland Seminar: Safety Assessment of Brussels Vrije Universiteit Brussel Cosmetics in the EU Belgium Future of Surfactants Amsterdam ACI Europe Summit Europe Netherlands Luxe Pack Los Angeles IDICE Los Angeles USA MakeUp in Los Angeles Beauteam US Los Angeles USA Vivaness Nuremberg NürnbergMesse PLMA Annual Dublin PLMA Roundtable Conference Ireland DGK-Fortbildungskurs: Hamburg DGK e.v. Hautverträglichkeit Personal Care Product Council Palm Beach Personal Care Products Council Annual Meeting USA International Conference on Porto Skin Challenges Skin Ageing and Challenges Portugal Prix de Beauté Wiesbaden Bauer Media Packaging Innovations Birmingham easyfairs Great Britain BEAUTY FORUM CLUJ Cluj Health and Beauty Business Media Kft. Romania BEAUTY FORUM POLAND Warsaw Health and Beauty Media Sp.z.z.o. Poland BEAUTY FORUM SWISS Zurich Health and Beauty Marketing Swiss GmbH Switzerland Beauty Kenya Nairobi Beauty Kenya Kenya American Conference Institute New York ACI Annual Legal, Regulatory and USA Compliance Forum DGK-Workshop: Moderne Hamburg DGK e.v. Hautreinigungsmittel Beauty Düsseldorf Düsseldorf Messe Düsseldorf TOP HAIR Düsseldorf Düsseldorf Messe Düsseldorf Cleaning Products Europe Amsterdam Smithers Apex Netherlands Cosmopack Bologna BolognaFiere Cosmoprof Cosmo Perfumery & Cosmetics Italy Cosmoprof Bologna BolognaFiere Cosmoprof Hair & Nail, Beauty Salon Italy PCHi Shanghai Reed Sinopharm China China l 61

9 Packaging NEWSLETTER ORDER AAK Sweden AB Personal Care p. 68 Kreativität trifft auf Kunststoff. Gesellschaft für transparente Verpackungen mbh Hans-Sachs-Straße 3, Rodgau Tel. +49 (0) Greentech GmbH p. 23 Health and Beauty GmbH p p. 51 p. 65 GERSCHON PACKAGING COSMETICS. PHARMA We offer bottles and jars made of glass and plastics together with perfect red Sandalwood KHK GmbH p. 37 Krüss GmbH p. 36 Milliken p. 2 Reed Exhibition Companies p. 9 p. 40, 41 Sabinsa Europe GmbH p. 7 SystemKosmetik Produktionsges. für Kosmetische Erzeugnisse mbh p. 37 Virospack SLU p. 15 z Yes, I want to be kept right up to date. I therefore agree that Health and Beauty GmbH may contact me by mobile phone, , in writing, by telephone/fax with news from the industry and to tell me about interesting offers. If I do not wish to receive further infor mation, I will communicate this to Health and Beauty. Please fill in completely in capital letters or add your business card: First name, family name Company Street address Postcode, city, Ethical, sustainable and reliable Australian grown Indian sandalwood Santalum album oil Coulson Way, Canning Vale, Perth, WA 6155, Australia Phone emilie.bell@santanol.com Zahoransky AG p. 5 Date and signature Order today: Fax: +49 (0) Contact: Phone: +49 (0) Fax: +49 (0) customer@health-and-beauty.com

10 E / 2018 COSMETICS SPRAY TECHNOLOGY MARKETING GO FUTURE: SUN CARE Do mineral UV filters meet the challenge? SPOTLIGHT: SAMPLES The perfect minis Dr Christian Rimpler, Rimpler Cosmetics A PASSION FOR SKIN CARE SVEN GEHRIG Wala ISO Has it really hit the mark?