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1 Contents 10/ Creative concepts for colour cosmetics 03 Editorial 10 MARKETS & COMPANIES 26 Anti-pollution bioactive for smoother and firmer skin 10 News 12 GO FUTURE: STYLING 12 Petra Kudla and Anne Dussaud, Momentive: Long lasting straightening and more 16 MakeUp in New York: New ideas for colourful make-up 20 Emmanuelle Moeglin, Mintel: International launches 22 INGREDIENTS 22 Sepawa: Farewell to Fulda 26 Suellen Bennett, Lonza Consumer Care: Shielding off pollution aggressors 30 Facial care concepts: Active slow-down 34 Formulations: Anti-ageing products 40 Ingredients news 12 New silicone technology for hair restoration and sensorial benefits 42 BACKGROUND 42 Jamie Mills, Canadean: Seeking natural and new sun protection 44 Birgit Huber, IKW: A closer look at claims 45 Sepawa CAT Conference: Invaluable exchange 46 Star of the Month: Tool for pimped-up face care 4 l 10 I

2 Discover GlucoPure SUGAR SURFACTANTS FOR MAXIMUM PERFORMANCE THIS IS CLARIANT: SPECIALTY CHEMICALS CREATING VALUE. Our ongoing search for sustainable solutions led us to GlucoPure : innovative and high-performing sugar-based surfactants for hand dishwashing, detergents and bathroom cleaners. GlucoPure is based on sugar and natural oils such as RSPO certified palm oil resulting in a Renewable Carbon Index of up to 95%.

3 Contents 10/ New ideas for sun protection 44 A closer look at the amendments for cosmetic claims 48 SPOTLIGHT: ETHNIC BEAUTY 48 Targeting multicultural markets 52 PACKAGING 52 Karel Golta, Indeed Innovation: Digitally empowered packaging 55 Packaging news 56 PERSONALITIES & PROFILES 52 Digitally empowered packaging and its impact on the cosmetics industry 56 Interview with Thomas Bauer, Frei Öl: 50 years of skin and oil expertise 59 People 60 SERVICES 08 Download List 60 BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH: Off to Munich for new trends 61 Events Diary 62 Suppliers Guide 65 Advertisers Index 66 Masthead Page 66 Preview Front cover picture: Frei Öl 6 l 10 I

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5 SERVICES Free Downloads for Subscribers CLICK THROUGH OUR WEB TV CLIPS: DOWNLOAD-TIP IN OCTOBER 75% of participants of a new study felt an immediate smoothing effect after the use of a formulation containing the protein hydrolysate Prolevis. In their article, Angela Kleiner and Elisabeth Streefland from Croda explain how it works. UWE MUNZINGER founder & managing director at Sasserath Munziger Plus talks about how social media influences consumer behaviour and trends. JULIETTE DUVEAU Senior Trend Forecaster at Les Persiennes informs about the latest trends in the beauty market in Iran. Self-esteem today often depends on the number of likes for posted photos. DOWNLOADS Additional information at Your access codes for October: User name: cossma10 Password: makeup Top-Downloads for October DR MONIKA KOPRA-SCHÄFER President, Etma points out the major milestones in the 175-year history of flexible tubes. REFERENCES COMPANIES BACKGROUND FORMULATION Cellynkage marine ingredient (Lipotec) Dr. Grandel & Phyris brand Waterless formulation concepts Luxurious Cleansing Oil (Zschimmer & Schwarz) VIVIENNE RUDD Director of Global Insight & Innovation Beauty & Personal Care at Mintel explains why a lot of exciting trends in cosmetics are coming from Korea and Japan. LOG IN AND TAKE FULL ADVANTAGE! On the web site we post lots of additional information elated to the topics covered in the magazine. You will find MORE THAN 1,000 USEFUL ADDITIONAL ITEMS to extend your knowledge and understanding: more information on the ingredients and finished products that we cover, market data and statistics, supplier listings, literature references, scientific articles, product formulations and useful base informations. Take a look right now, at photo: Jacob Lund, Shutterstock.com 8 l 10 I

6 31 st BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH 22 nd 23 rd October 2016 VARIOUS Around 1,000 exhibiting international companies and brands the complete spectrum of professional cosmetics EXCITING International championships in Make-up-, Nail-Design-, NailArt-, Lashes- & Bodypainting SCIENTIFIC 2 nd Anti-Aging Congress & 7 th Podology Congress QUALIFIED Practice-related workshops as well as speeches & presentations at the meeting points FREE-OF-COSTS ENTRY FOR ALL INTERNATIONAL VISITORS! All information: Contact: +49 (0) kundenservice@health-and-beauty.com

7 SERVICES N N FUTURE TRENDS Makeup Artistic Director Giovanni Fasiello on October 23 stages a show featuring next year s makeup trends with their innovative textures and pigments. Reviderm s high-definition makeup of the future blurs the boundaries between dermocosmetics and high-definition makeup. On October 22 the Munich Hair Academy presents Paul Mitchell s radiant and buoyant makeup and hairstyling concept Fight the Dark.. If you like dirndl dresses, be sure not to miss Claudia Effenberg s Dirndl Fashion Show at the BEAUTY POINT on October 23 at 12:30 p.m.. Off to Munich BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH If it is not yet on your agenda, know that one date in October is an absolute must the 31 st BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH from October is Europe s #1 autumn cosmetics trade fair. N N WHEN AND WHERE Date: October Place: Tradeshow Munich Opening Saturday: 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. hours: Sunday: 9.am. to 5 p.m. These are the highlights of the show: approximately 1,000 international companies and brands of the entire professional cosmetics service industry will feature their latest products, treatments and trends. The 2 nd Anti-Aging Congress on October 23 rd features Anti-ageing in Aesthetic Medicine, Effective Anti- Ageing with Medical Beauty Treatments and Anti-Ageing in Dermatology. Dr Frank Muggenthaler, Muggenthaler Ästhetik, will present major non-invasive treatments. Dr Wolfgang Redka-Swoboda, Teoxane, will elaborate on hyaluronic acid. Dr Jürgen Reus, Hohenzollern Clinic, will illustrate the Mesoanalog Lift for volume reconstruction. N MOST IMPORTANT LINKS AT A GLANCE The complete trade show programme as well as all additional information on the show is available at Reduced presale tickets as well as tickets for the Anti-Ageing Congress and the Podiatry Congress are available at For visitors from abroad the admission fee is free if you register here: Dr Karl Schuhmann, University of Duisburg-Essen in Hattingen, will tackle the topic of breast augmentation and reduction. Dr Michaela Axt-Gadermann, University of Coburg, will explain what impact the intestinal flora has on skin and weight. The dermatologist Dr Birgit Buxmeyer from the Rosenpark Klinik will talk about medical anti-ageing treatments in aesthetic dermatology. The 7 th Podiatry Congress will be focussing on the diabetic foot in three sessions on October 23 rd. In addition, there is a large variety of highly informative professional workshops. The new International Pavilion in Hall C3, Stand A21, is tailored for international exhibitors to serve as a door opener not only to the German but also to the international beauty market. photo: Mathis Beutel 60 l 10 I

8 5 GOOD REASONS FOR READING! Discover today your competitors plans for tomorrow! 1 2 Formulations, industry trends, market data 3 4 Search and download from our archives 10 issues a year 192 Euros (Germany) 198 Euros (outside Germany) Order today! Interactive E-paper Free classifi classified advert for subscribers (0) (0) customer@health-and-beauty.com

9 E / 2016 COSMETICS SPRAY TECHNOLOGY MARKETING GO FUTURE: STYLING Long-lasting straightening and more SPOTLIGHT: ETHNIC BEAUTY Targeting multicultural markets Thomas Bauer, Frei Öl OILS WITH A SPECIAL EFFECT SUELLEN BENNETT Lonza Shielding off pollutant aggressors

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33 rd BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH 33 rd BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH INTERNATIONAL TRADE FAIR FOR PROFESSIONALS 27 28 October 2018 Exhibitor documents All infos: www.beauty-fairs.de/muenchen BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH 2018 BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH Top-quality

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