Contents. 10 I Andrea Weber. 12 I The latest trends in facial care are outlined. 22 I Innovations can. 36 I The prize-winners NEWS

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1 Contents 3 Editorial NEWS 8 Markets + Profiles 12 I The latest trends in facial care are outlined by raw material suppliers and dermatologists 36 I The prize-winners of the tube competition were characterised by new visual and tactile effects 10 I Andrea Weber of Babor explains how the most important new moisturisers work 22 I Innovations can be given patent protection, but patents can also constrain one s competitors FOCUS Facial care 10 a Andrea Weber, Dr. Babor: Active substances The moisturiser makes a comeback 12 Interview with representatives from Cognis/ LS, Dermatest, Dow Corning, Mibelle and Symrise: Facial care Current trends 16 New Products MARKETING 18 Carla Ogeia, Mintel: International launches 20 Dr. Jörg Grünwald, Analyze & Realize: Effective ingredients for beauty foods 22 a Dr. Adolf Klenk, Dr. Kurt Wolff: Patents Effective protection for innovations 24 Star of the Month: A handy home beauty salon 26 Helena de la Joya, Health and Beauty Spain: The Spanish personal care market A growing beauty care market PRODUCTION 28 a 25th IFSCC Congress in Barcelona The latest findings in cosmetic science 30 Packaging News 34 HBA in New York 36 a Gregor Spengler, ETMA: Tubes Awards for unusual visual and tactile effects 38 France A packaging market packed with potential 40 New Ingredients SERVICES 6 Download List 42 Essential Oils: World Markets 44 Essential Oils: Price List 46 Formulations: Body care 48 23rd BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH A glittering cascade of new ideas 50 Events Diary 52 Book Shop 54 International B2B Exchange 58 Suppliers Guide 64 Company Index 64 Advertisers Index 65 Masthead Page 66 Preview a Leading articles Front cover picture: Babor

2 SYN AKE Age Killing Effect. gruner brenneisen communications 2006 SYN AKE mimics the activity of Waglerin 1, a protein found in the venom of the Temple Viper, Tropidolaemus wagleri. SYN AKE a synthetic tripeptide with excellent anti wrinkle properties. Registered as DSM Nutritional Products Ltd Branch Pentapharm Engelgasse 109, P. O. Box, CH 4002 Basel/Switzerland, Phone: , Fax: ,

3 CONTENTS Your access codes for this month: User: cossma9 password: face w w w. c o s s m a. c o m / d o w n l o a d Download more: go to: download Now available on-line for subscribers! Packaging Providers International Address listing Additional information, ready to download - just enter the URL into your browser to view the full data (a=new!) PRODUCT INFORMATION Product information: Ingredients: Cognis APG Ion-Moist 4Men Decelerine DayMoist CLR Aldenine Lipocroman 6 Baycusan ABIL UV Quat 50 TEGO Galanga VARISOFT EQ 65 List of ingredients for organic formulations ALP-SEDUM BeauActive MTP Dermofeel PO Dermofeel PP Dermosoft GMCY photo: Fotolia Finished products: Innovative products, selected by Mintel a SpinLash Mascara a Grains de Beauté Déo Clim Régulateur a Self-Tanning Facial Cream Best of Summer Topic+Oral Longevity Formula Body Sculpturing Concentrate Caress Cream for Buttocks Baroque Bleu Perfume Gel In-shower moisture lotion Ultra Sheer Beauty Wrap Brush Foundation Felted Moisturizing Soap Mood Swing Lip Gloss Diamond Gloss Shampoo Color Quick by Sally Hansen Glitter Magic Sparkle by Nair Teens Company Profiles: Sara Lee Cognis: Background Feelosophy SCIENTIFIC ARTICLES AND STUDIES a New complex to beat stretch marks In-vitro study results Vanistry Mouth odor and its treatment Background information mouth odor treatment A better future for your skin: Preventive cosmetics Scientific version with charts Laboratory technology: Measuring the viscosity of cosmetics products Scient. Version with charts Chart: Viscosity in creams Chart: Shear rates Hair Care: Natural anti-ageing much in demand Extended version of the trend statements of Laboratoires Sérobiologiques, Silab, National Starch REFERENCES: Dangerous Nanotechnology? A lot of fuss about nothing References Soil Association: Press Information and background info on nano materials Emulsifier blend makes it possible: Plant-based W/O formulations References Cell-active folic acid: References SUPPLIER LISTINGS Service Providers international Address listing Natural Cosmetics: Supplier listing ingredients and packaging Contract Services International Address listing a Ingredient Providers International Address listing photo: Pascaline Lopez Fotolia.com by country MARKET DATA AND STUDIES France: Market Cosmetics & Toiletries Latin America: Market Cosmetics & Toiletries Germany: Personal Care Market 2007 Geo cosmetics: Detailed description of the study Eastern Europe: Market Data Cosmetic Market Russia: Data on cosmetic market Spain: Market shares by segments, companies and brands by segments Finished Products: Market data and Studies a Color Cosmetics Market: Brand Shares Ranking Fine Fragrance: Data premium and mass market world-wide Hair Care: Market data world-wide Body Care: Market data by segments and countries Natural Cosmetics: Market data, list of products recently launched (international) Sun Care/ Sun Protection: Market data international photo: Iggesund 6 Cossma 9I2008

4 Vincience Actives ATPeptide IS An energy boosting peptide specifically designed to revitalize aging skin by increasing skin s structural and functional integrity. GP4G IS A unique plankton extract that energizes, protects skin from environmental stresses, and enhances skin s maintenance and repair. Signaline S A botanical cellular activation signal amplifier that increases cellular energy and promotes epidermal and dermal regeneration. Defining Personal Care INTERNATIONAL SPECIALTY PRODUCTS 1361 Alps Road, Wayne, NJ USA: (800) Canada: (800) Brazil: /0477 Mexico: Europe: /55 Asia: PRCA_A1018

5 E C O S M E T I C S S P R AY T E C H N O L O G Y M A R K E T I N G Patents Proper protection for innovations, and avoiding patent infringements Packaging Prize-winning tubes with exciting visual and tactile properties Events Cosmetics science up close at the IFSCC 2008 VIP of the month Andrea Weber, Babor, explains the active mechanisms of new moisturisers Focus: Facial care 9 / w w w. c o s s m a. c o m

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7 SERVICES FORMULATIONS Download Extra The exclusive service for our subscribers: At you will find additional information that you can download. Your access codes for September: User name: cossma9 Password: face Body care We have collected a particularly large selection of body care product formulations for you in this issue. A total of 27 companies have submitted 40 different formulations, which, if you require details, you can find at from where they can all be downloaded. This month s access codes are on the Internet button on this page. In October we will be focussing on products to firm the skin and in November it will be the turn of sprays and mousses. All of the information published here has been carefully assembled, however neither the publishers nor the developers of these formulations can accept responsibility for their safety or accuracy. The formulations on offer this month include products covering the widest range of body care applications. For instance, what about a treatment for stretch marks, a sun-tan lotion, a clear micro-emulsion after-shave, several deodorants and antiperspirants, shimmering body lotions, or various personal cleansing products? The exfoliant formulations in this month s selection include Peach Smoothie Body Scrub from Dow Corning, Sugar Scrub from Sisterna, an Exfoliating Body Cleansing Cream for Men from Southern Cross Botanicals and Detox Scrub-Gel with marine extracts from Unipex. Croda Chemicals Europe Ltd. Contact: Corwick Hall, Snaith Goole DN14 9AA, Großbritannien pc-europe@croda.com Profile: Croda is one of the world s leading suppliers of speciality raw materials, combining functionality with a natural positioning to provide winning ingredients for the personal care industry. With a wide and diverse product range, Croda offers innovation supported by proven efficacy testing across all personal care market sectors. Formulas: Body Beautiful Be Cool Be Rich Be Delicate Skin Rescue Calm DSM Nutritional Products Ltd. Branch Pentapharm Contact: Engelgasse Basel, Schweiz Phone: Fax: barbara.obermayer@pentapharm.com Profile: DSM Nutritional Products Ltd. Branch Pentapharm is an international producer of innovative cosmetic actives of natural, synthetic and bio-techological origin. Formulas: Anti-Stretch Mark Treatment Pre-Sun Skin Protection Sprayable After-Sun Lotion After-Sun Light Tanning Lotion The HallStar Company Contact: Victor Zubb 120 South Riverside Plaza Chicago, USA vzubb@hallstar.com Profile: HallStar delivers cost-effective solutions for customers. We are leaders in ester chemistry, with more than 50 years of esterification experience. We offer a wide array of ingredients for personal care, including unique photostabilizers that help sunscreens reach the highest performance levels. Formulas: Broad Spectrum SPF 15 Daywear Moisturizer Hand & Body Lotion Cooling Aftershave Moisturizer Men s Clear Microemulsion Aftershave 46 COSSMA 9I2008

8 FORMULATIONS SERVICES Peach Smoothie Body Scrub Dow Corning Golden Body Shaper Rahn AG SummitReheis Contact: 15, Big Pond Road Huguenot NY, USA Phone: Profile: With the recent acquisition of Reheis Inc. Summit Research labs is the leading manufacturer of a full range of antiperspirant actives offering a technology based range of Aluminum and Aluminum Zirkonium active ingredients in different forms to meet the latest demands from the cosmetic industry. Rezeptur: High Efficacy AP Deo Aerosol Spray Soft Solid Antiperspirant Clear Antiperspirant Pump Spray Sensitive Skin Antiperspirant Stick Transparent Antiperspirant Gel Nature Be Lovin Restorative Lotion Arch Personal Care Products L.P. Moisturizing Anti-Ageing Cream Gel Q10 Clariant Moisturizing Body Wash for Teens Evonik Goldschmidt Caring Shower Oil with Jojoba Oil Hydrior AG Grant X-Cream Skin IMCD Shimmering Body Lotion Interpolymer Anti-Bacterial Deodorant Stick with Acnacidol BG ISP Europe Anti-stretch marks cream Lipotec Bath & Shower Gel Nalco Company Natural Bodywash Rhodia Quenching Osmoprotectant Cream Sederma SAS Anti-cellulite body milk SILAB Sugar scrub Sisterna B.V. Nutri Touch Solabia Group Exfoliating Body Cleansing Cream for Men Southern Cross Botanicals Pty Ltd Bodywash Cashmere Intensive Care Cognis Ultra Quick Break Gel with Cooling Effect Nikko Chemicals Inorganic sunscreen W/O emulsion Umicore Flushed Blush Wow Pink with special effect pigments Cornelius Group Plc Naturally Clean Shower Gel Presperse Detox Scrub-Gel with marine extracts Unipex Innovations SiLiglit reflective & effective all glitters according to the EUROPEAN REGULATIONS Cosmetic Glitter create sparkling and colourful moments for your cosmetic products are tested SIGMUND LINDNER GmbH Oberwarmensteinacher Str. 38 D Warmensteinach Phone (++49) Fax (++49) E Mail: sili@sigmund lindner.com

9 SERVICES EVENTS Fairs, conferences and seminars When? What? Where? Who? BEAUTY FORUM AUSTRIA Salzburg, Health and Beauty Marketing Ges.m.b.H. Austria BEAUTY FORUM Nailpro Warsaw, Health and Beauty Media Sp.z.z.o. Show Poland Poland International Symposium Quedlinburg, GDCh on Essential Oils Germany HBA Global Expo New York, CMP Information (CMPi) USA Cosmesur Buenos Aires, Indexport Messe Frankfurt Beautyworld Argentina Fresenius Fachkonferenz Cologne, Die Akademie Fresenius GmbH Kosmetik und Körperpflegemittel Germany In-Cosmetics Mumbai, Reed Exhibitions India India Naturkosmetik Nuremberg, NürnbergMesse GmbH Branchenkongress Germany CPhI Wordlwide Frankfurt a.m., CMP Information Germany Powtech Nuremberg, NürnbergMesse Technopharm Germany PPMA Birmingham, Reed Exhibitions Great Britain Beautyworld Mumbai, Messe Frankfurt India India Beautyworld Osaka, Mesago Messe Frankfurt Japan West Japan IFSCC Congress Barcelona, SEQC Spain Seminar: Nahrungs- Frankfurt a.m., Forum Institut für Management ergänzungsmittel Germany Les Antioxydants et Paris, Société Française des Antioxydants leur actualité France Seminar: Struktur-Wirkungs- Kaiserslautern, DGK e.v, Christine Domsch Beziehung und Metabolismus Germany SEPAWA Kongress Würzburg, SEPAWA Germany Seminar: Qualitätssicherung Frankfurt a.m., Forum Institut für Management kosmetischer Mittel Germany DGK User Meeting: Hamburg, DGK e.v, Christine Domsch Rheologie kosmetischer Emulsionen Germany FormulAction Moscow, Reed Elsevier (Russia) Russia Intercharm Moscow, Expomediagroup Staraya Krepost Russia BEAUTY FORUM MÜNCHEN Munich, Health and Beauty Trade Fairs GmbH, Arndt Nickel Germany Private Label Munich, MarkExpo Ltd. Ausstellung Germany Style N Beauty Show Estepona, The Beauty Magazine Spain darius@thebeautymagazine.com, Luxe Pack Monte Carlo, Idice SAS Monaco Monaco info@idice.fr, Seminar: Betriebshygiene Monschau, GfPS mbh in der Kosmetik Germany gabi.jobes@gfps.de, Konferenz: Sicherheitsbewertung Wiesbaden, IIR Deutschland in der Kosmetik Germany isabella.treser@iir.de, 50 COSSMA 9I2008

10 for fine cosmetics since 1926 MPC Milk Peptide Complex the multifunctional cosmetic active MPC Milk Peptide Complex reduces the visible signs of skin aging and helps the skin to regenerate. MPC Milk Peptide Complex contains natural bioactive polypeptides (Cytokines) obtained from milk. These cytokines are the key regulators of cell functions. They enable cells to react on changes very fast and efficiently. One example of this is TGF (Transforming Growth Factor ) which has been identified in its active form in MPC. MPC Milk Peptide Complex is a strong activator of regenerative cell functions. It acts as a booster of collagen synthesis and that of other Extracellular Matrix (ECM) compounds leading to a reorganization of the ECM. In vivo tests have shown that MPC shortly reduces wrinkle depths and skin roughness. MPC also fights cellulite by stimulating production of connective tissue components, thereby increasing firmness and thickness of the skin. CLR Product Groups Anti aging Preventive Care Sensitive & Problem Skin Impure Skin Moisturizer Hair Care Botanical Oils CLR Chemisches Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH Berlin Germany Tel +49 (0) info@clr berlin.com berlin.com

11 Advertisers Index Company Index Rexam Airspray International B.V. p. 25 BASF AG p. 35 Bayer MaterialScience AG p. 2 S. Black GmbH p. 30 bomo trendline innovative Cosmetic GmbH p. 39 CLR Chem. Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH p. 68 Daiichi Fine Chemical Europe GmbH p. 21 DSM Nutritional Products Ltd. pp. 17, 56, 57 DSM Nutritional Products Ltd. Branch Pentapharm p. 5 Emballage World Packaging Exhibition p. 49 Fire and Ice Wellness GmbH p. 55 Greentech S.A. p. 40 HLP Clear Packaging Products p. 19 Industrias Perfum p. 23 ISP International Specialty Products p. 7 Paul Kaders GmbH p. 30 Kolb Distribution Ltd. p. 15 Sigmund Lindner GmbH p. 47 Louvrette GmbH p. 33 Lutz GmbH & Co.KG p. 27 Mani GmbH p. 23 NürnbergMesse GmbH p. 29 Pago Ettiketiersysteme GmbH p. 37 Rahn AG p. 55 Rovi Cosmetics International GmbH p. 41 Sepawa Vereinigung der Seifen- u. Waschmittelfachleute e.v. p. 45 Dr. Straetmans GmbH p. 13 Terco Inc. p. 31 Trichema AG p. 43 Wittmann Druck + Verpackung GmbH p. 9 Adolf Hopf p. 30 Aerosol Forum p. 30 Alban Muller p. 40 Alcan pp. 30, 36 Alltub p. 36 Alpaflor p. 8 Analyze + realize AG p. 20 Art & Fragrance p. 8 Avon p. 16 Babor p. 10 Bourjois p. 18 Budelpack p. 8 Carolina Herrera p. 24 Chanel p. 24 Chemyunion p. 10 Clariant p. 28 Clarinol p. 20 Clarins p. 24 Clinique p. 16 CLR p. 10 Codif p. 10 Cognis pp. 12, 20 ColepCCL p. 8 Continental Packaging p. 34 Cosnova p. 8 Courage + Khazaka p. 28 Dermatest p. 12 Dessange p. 8 Diapharma p. 8 Dm p. 8 Dow Chemical p. 8 Dow Corning pp. 12, 28, 46 Dr. Kurt Wolff p. 22 Dr. Straetmans p. 40 DRV-Phytolab p. 24 DSM p. 28 EAFA p. 30 Edelmann p. 30 Emballage p. 38 ESK Ceramics p. 40 Estée Lauder p. 24 Etma p. 36 Frutarom p. 20 Givenchy p. 30 Glaxo SmithKline p. 30 HallStar p. 8 HBA p. 34 Health and Beauty Spain p. 24 Henkel p. 8 Hochschule Ostwestfalen-Lippe p. 8 IBR p. 30 IFF p. 8 IFSCC p. 28 Impag pp. 8, 40 Induchem pp. 8, 28 Infinitec p. 10 Innovation Network Austria p. 30 ISP p. 28 Jo Wood p. 30 Kao p. 30 Kaufland p. 8 Kneipp p. 36 L Oréal pp. 8, 24 Lab. Sérobiologiques pp. 12, 28, 40 Lancaster pp. 24 Lancôme p. 30 Lipotec p. 10 Lise Watier p. 30 LVMH p. 24 Mary Kay p. 16 Merck p. 28 Mibelle p. 12 Mintel pp. 18, 20 Neutrogena p. 18 Nielsen p. 24 Nina Ricci p. 24 NPD p. 8 Paco Rabanne p. 24 Pantene p. 18 Pentapharm p. 8 Phenion p. 8 Plasticum p. 8 PPR p. 24 Prada p. 24 Procter & Gamble pp. 18, 24 Puig p. 24 Quadpack p. 30 Rahn p. 10 Revlon p. 8 Rexam pp. 30, 34 Rossmann p. 8 RPC p. 34 Sederma pp. 10, 40 Seppic pp. 10, 28 Shiseido p. 24 Silab p. 34 Sisterna p. 46 Soliance pp. 10, 40 Southern Cross Botanicals p. 46 Stanpa p. 24 Straticell p. 28 Stropol p. 30 Symrise p. 12 Thalgo p. 8 Tubex p. 36 Unilever p. 12 Unipex p. 46 Vichy pp. 16, COSSMA 9I2008

12 The Team Masthead Page You would prefer to read the German version? Fill in the form below and make sure you receive the language version of your choice! Volume 9 ISSN Managing Director Jürgen Volpp Publishing Director Hendrik van der Vliet +49 (0) Senior Editor Angelika Meiss Advertising sales Dorothea Michaelis Advertising support Andrea Bolz Subscription service Elke Hucker Published by Address Editorial Staff Advisory Board Advertising Health and Beauty Business Media GmbH Managing Director: Jürgen Volpp Publishing Director: Hendrik van der Vliet Tel.: hendrik.vandervliet@health-and-beauty.com Health and Beauty Business Media GmbH, COSSMA P.O. Box 1446, Karlsruhe, Germany Phone: , Fax: Senior Editor: Angelika Meiss Phone: angelika.meiss@health-and-beauty.com François Berthoud, Jean-François Billon, Agnès Borel, Peter Finkel, Dr. Ulrike Heinrich, Ulrich Herfurt, Birgit Huber, Dr. Jean-Luc Lévêque, Dr. Daniel Maes, Prof. Dr. Hagen Tronnier, Dr. Klaus-Peter Wittern Advertisement Manager: Dorothea Michaelis Phone: dorothea.michaelis@health-and-beauty.com Advertising Services: Andrea Bolz Phone: , Fax: The current list of advertising rates is dated 1st of Jan Circulation Health and Beauty Business Media GmbH Service Elke Hucker Phone: , Fax: Published: 12 times a year COSSMA: formerly Parfümerie und Kosmetik and Aerosol and Spray Report Subscription Purchase price/annual subscription rates: Rates Germany: 186; outside Germany: 192. Cancellations addressed to the publishing firm by letter will be accepted one month before the end of the subscription year. The subscription fees will be billed in advance once a year. A quarterly debit transfer arrangement via a bank or post office is acceptable. Design/ Health and Beauty Business Media GmbH Production Claudia Henkes Karl-Friedrich-Str , Karlsruhe, Germany Phone: ISDN (Leonardo): Printing VVA GmbH/Wesel Kommunikation Dr. Rudolf-Eberle-Str. 15, Baden-Baden, Germany International Representatives Great Britain Richard H. Thompson, 38 Addison Avenue London W11 4 QP, Great Britain Phone: Fax: richardmedia@yahoo.com Hungary Health and Beauty Business Media Kft. Anita Zsilak, Naphegy tér 8. III. em. (MTI Székház) 1016 Budapest, Hungary, Phone: , Fax: azsilak@health-and-beauty.hu Italy and Spain Erregieme S.R.L., Piazza S. Stefano Milano, Italy Phone: , Fax: Poland Health and Beauty Media Sp.z.o.o. Dorota Warowna, ul. Kubickiego 9/ Warsaw, Poland Phone: , Fax: d.warowna@health-and-beauty.com.pl Scandinavia BSW International Marketing P.O. Box 2714, 2100 Kopenhagen, Denmark Phone: , Fax: bsw@tele2adsl.dk USA and Canada Christine Mai, 519 Roma Ct. APT 3201, Naples, FL Phone: cm_marketing@earthlink.net z I would like to receive the English Version. z I would like to receive the German Version. z I would like to receive both language versions of the print edition, please give me details of the special combined subscription price. z I would like to be able to read both language versions online as pdf files at no extra charge. Please send the access details for the online archive monthly to my address below. Please fill in completely in capital letters or add your business card: First name, family name Company Street Address Postcode, City, Graphics Claudia Henkes Member of the German association for verification of magazine and newspaper circulation figures Copyright Health and Beauty Business Media GmbH, Karlsruhe 2008 The publisher has taken all reasonable steps to ensure the accuracy of information in this magazine. Nevertheless, no responsibility is accepted for any errors which may occur. The magazine, including all articles and illustrations is copyright. Unauthorised use of published material is prohibited and will be the subject of legal action. This applies in particular to photo copying, translations, microfilms and the storage and editing using electronic media. The use of trade names, brand names, product designations etc. in this publication implies no authority for their further use by third parties. Such product names and brands may be the subject of legal protection, even though they may not be identified as such in the magazine. Fax to Contact: Elke Hucker Health and Beauty Business Media GmbH, Karl-Friedrich-Str , Karlsruhe, Germany elke.hucker@health-and-beauty.com phone: , fax: