Contents. 10 I How does the NaTrue natural cosmetics. 18 I A major challenge: Environmentally-friendly. 36 I Product sustainability

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1 Contents 10 I How does the NaTrue natural cosmetics label differ from existing seals of approval? 18 I A major challenge: Environmentally-friendly packaging produced in an environmentally-friendly way 36 I Product sustainability and design the winning aerosol cans of I Multifunctional ingredients for colour cosmetics 3 Editorial NEWS 8 Markets + Profiles FOCUS Natural cosmetics 10 a Interview with Peter Finkel, Sara Lee; Moritz Aebersold, NaTrue: Natural cosmetics hype and certification 12 Fiona Rauh, Liquidrock: Green, greener, greenest 14 Imogen Matthews, In-Cosmetics: How natural is natural? 16 New Products 18 The challenge of eco-packaging MARKETING 22 a Astrid Wulfinghoff, Zschimmer & Schwarz: Innovations for colour cosmetics 24 New Products Decorative cosmetics 26 SEPAWA preview New products 30 Star of the Month: Make-up with individually adjustable colour tones 32 Carla Ogeia, Mintel: International launches PRODUCTION 34 a LuxePack 2008 in Monaco From head to foot in luxury 36 a Gregor Spengler, Aerobal: Aerosol Can of the Year Product sustainability and design in focus 38 Packaging News 42 Michael Pfeiffer, Pfeiffer Consulting, Michael Tscholak and Patrick Rüter, Ruetscho GmbH: Preventing fungal growth in production 44 New Ingredients SERVICES 6 Download List 48 Essential Oils: Price List 49 Book Shop 50 Formulations: Firming Products 52 23rd BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH More exhibitors on an increased area 54 International B2B Exchange 56 Events Diary 58 Suppliers Guide 64 Company Index, Advertisers Index 65 Masthead Page 66 Preview a Leading articles Front cover picture: Aveda

2 for fine cosmetics since 1926 the long lasting moisturizer DayMoist CLR DayMoist CLR improves the hydration level of the upper layers of the skin immediately and for at least 24 hours. DayMoistCLR is a natural active ingredient potently supporting the natural moisturizing factors (NMFs) in arranging a high level of hydration in the stratum corneum. DayMoistCLR has an immediate and long lasting boosting effect. Just one single application of a cosmetic formulation containing DayMoist CLR leads to significant moisturization for at least 24 hours. The moisturizing properties of DayMoist CLR have been proven objectively and reliably by a combination of two in vivo technologies: Confocal Raman Microspectroscopy and Corneometry. DayMoist CLR is designed for all types of leave on formulations which are intended for everyday care and moisturization of the skin. CLR Chemisches Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH Berlin Germany Tel +49 (0) info@clr berlin.com berlin.com

3 CONTENTS Your access codes for this month: User: cossma10 password: nature w w w. c o s s m a. c o m / d o w n l o a d Download more: go to: download Now available on-line for subscribers! Additional information, ready to download - just enter the URL into your browser to view the full data (a=new!) PRODUCT INFORMATION Product information: Ingredients: a PhytoCellTec Malus Domestica a Hydrolite 5 a Aqualance a Aquasense a CellActive-Hydro a DayMoist CLR a Hydrasalinol a Ion-Moist4men a Pheohydran a Renovhyal Cognis APG Decelerine Aldenine Lipocroman 6 Baycusan Foto: Fotolia Finished products: Innovative products, selected by Mintel a UV Light Mascara a Wave Deep Clean Power-Cleanser a Shampoo Pantene Pro-V Beautiful Lengths SpinLash Mascara Grains de Beauté Déo Clim Régulateur Self-Tanning Facial Cream Best of Summer Topic+Oral Longevity Formula Body Sculpturing Concentrate Caress Cream for Buttocks Baroque Bleu Perfume Gel In-shower moisture lotion Ultra Sheer Beauty Wrap Brush Foundation Felted Moisturizing Soap Company Profiles: Sara Lee Cognis: Background Feelosophy SCIENTIFIC ARTICLES AND STUDIES a Facial care: Current trends Background information, trend statements (Cognis, Lab. Serobiologiques, Dow Corning, Symrise) a Effective ingredients for beauty foods Concept Information: Body Silhouette - Beauty from within Cell Renaissance Beauty from within Article: Conjugated linoleic acid supplementation for 1 y reduces body fat mass in healthy overweight humans Article: The effect of Korean pine nut oil on food intake, feeding behaviour and appetite New complex to beat stretch marks In-vitro study results Vanistry Mouth odor and its treatment Background information mouth odor treatment A better future for your skin: Preventive cosmetics Scientific version with charts REFERENCES: Dangerous Nanotechnology? A lot of fuss about nothing References Soil Association: Press Information and background info on nano materials Foto: Pixelio.de Emulsifier blend makes it possible: Plant-based W/O formulations References Cell-active folic acid: References SUPPLIER LISTINGS Service Providers international Address listing Natural Cosmetics: Supplier listing ingredients and packaging Contract Services International Address listing Ingredient Providers International Address listing Packaging Providers International Address listing by country MARKET DATA AND STUDIES France: Market Cosmetics & Toiletries Latin America: Market Cosmetics & Toiletries Germany: Personal Care Market 2007 Geo cosmetics: Detailed description of the study Eastern Europe: Market Data Cosmetic Market Russia: Data on cosmetic market Spain: Market shares by segments, companies and brands by segments Finished Products: Market data and Studies a Facial Care Market World-Wide (size, growth, brand ranking) Color Cosmetics Market: Brand Shares Ranking Hair Care: Market data world-wide Body Care: Market data by segments and countries Natural Cosmetics: Market data, list of products recently launched (international) Sun Care/ Sun Protection: Market data international 6 Cossma 10I2008

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5 BOOK SERVICE SERVICES Book Shop New New Who and What Personal care Liquidrock Trendreports Andreas Reinhart Kosmetikrecht This German language book covering the industry sector for 2009 contains extensive details of companies that are active in the personal care, detergents and cleaning chemicals industries: 698 manufacturers, importers and distributors, 57 contract manufacturers, 22 service companies, 45 ingredients suppliers, 27 trade associations and organisations, and 54 magazines and publications. The print edition includes the standard CD-ROM with integrated search function. The print edition with marketing CD-ROM allows the data to be exported. 20th edition, 316 pages, paperback, DIN A4, including VAT incl. standard CD-ROM, incl. marketing CD-ROM, 1, Liquidrock s latest trend reports the Category Trend Insights have analysed the most important personal care product categories worldwide to provide businesses with creative, costeffective expert know-ledge. Beauty Skincare, Medicated Beauty Skin, Body Care, Bath and Shower, Colour Cosmetics, Mother & Baby Care, are each covered in separate volumes. A clear forecast regarding the future potential of each category is a key part of the report. Category Trend Insights, each The new practical handbook Kosmetikrecht (Cosmetics Legislation) pulls together all of the fragmented current legislation and looks at some relevant legal judgements, as well drawing on experience gathered in a law practice. The book also examines the monitoring of manufacturers, their obligations and transgressions, as well as looking at the purely pharmaceutical aspects of cosmetics legislation. 190 pages, paperback, www. beauty-profishop.com New Order Form Health and Beauty Business Media GmbH, COSSMA book service, Karl-Friedrich-Str , Karlsruhe, Germany Hotline: +49 (0) , Fax +49 (0) or order online at: Who and What in the personal care, detergents and cleaning chemicals industries 2009 (in German): Book, incl. standard CD-ROM* Book, incl. marketing CD-ROM* *including VAT New Liquidrock: Category Trend Insights: Beauty Skincare Medicated Beauty Skin Body Care Bath and Shower Colour Cosmetics Mother & Baby Care Reinhart, Andreas: Kosmetikrecht (in German) I understand that I will be invoiced for the book(s) plus carriage charges at the time of dispatch. Sender: First name, family name Street and number City Company Phone Fax Date, Signature COSSMA 10/08 All prices are the same as the normal retail price, including VAT. We reserve the right to change these in the case of reprints.

6 We believe Sustainability means looking beyond the buzzwords LuxePack Monaco: Octobre 2008 / Stand DC8 DE5 SUSTAINABILITY DELIVERED At Alcan Packaging Beauty, we believe Sustainability can only be delivered by looking at the big picture not just at environmental but also at social and economic impact. Environment friendliness means constantly reducing the impact of our processes, products and services. Social responsibility means supporting our communities and implementing our world class Environment, Health & Safety program and Social Responsibility Directive in all our sites. Economic sense means managing sourcing and materials to reduce risks, while taking into account economical feasibility and business sustainability. With all this in mind, we strive to provide our customers with a reliable source of information and technical guidance and to design new and better packaging, using the Alcan Sustainability Stewardship Evaluation Tool (ASSET TM ) to measure their economic, social and environmental impact at each stage of their life cycle.

7 SERVICES FORMULATIONS Download Extra The exclusive service for our subscribers: At you will find additional information that you can download. Your access codes for October: User name: cossma10 Password: nature Firming products In this issue we have collected for you a number of formulations for skin-firming products. This is always a topical theme, and one for which we have assembled a total of 25 formulations from 20 different ingredients suppliers. If any of the formulations sound of particular interest to you, you can download them free of charge at The access codes are shown on the Internet button on this page. In November we will be turning our attention to spray and foam products. In December the subject will be formulations for lotions, creams and exfoliants. All of the information published here has been carefully assembled, however neither the publishers nor the developers of these formulations can accept responsibility for their safety or accuracy. There is always some part or other of the body that would benefit from being a little firmer or tighter, so it s no wonder that there is an increasing number of products aimed at meeting these special needs. And when we look at the formulations that have been submitted it is clear that multifunctionality is still a hot topic. How do you like the sound of, for instance, a Firming Shimmering Sun Lotion, such as the one that Croda have submitted? The Power shower with skin firming active from Cognis also sounds as though it could fulfil the consumer s dreams, firming her skin while she enjoys her daily shower. And anyone who has difficulty in overcoming the temptation to lounge about and avoid physical activity must surely be very much attracted by the No more fitness: Anti-orange peel emulsion from Impag. In the interesting selection that we have put together there is surely something for everyone. Have fun browsing through them! Croda Chemicals Europe Ltd. Contact: Corwick Hall, Snaith Goole DN14 9AA, Great Britain pc-europe@croda.com Profile: Croda is one of the world s leading suppliers of speciality raw materials, combining functionality with a natural positioning to provide winning ingredients for the personal care industry. With a wide and diverse product range, Croda offers innovation supported by proven efficacy testing across all personal care market sectors. Formulas: Body Contour Gel Firming Shimmering Sun Lotion Perfect Physique DSM Nutritional Products Ltd. Branch Pentapharm Contact: Engelgasse Basel, Switzerland Phone: Fax: barbara.obermayer@pentapharm.com Profile: DSM Nutritional Products Ltd. Branch Pentapharm is an international producer of innovative cosmetic actives of natural, synthetic and bio-techological origin. Formulas: Anti Stretch Mark Treatment Body Slim Shape Gel Gel with Cell-Fat Regulator Activity Tightening Contouring Gel photo: Bepanthol 50 COSSMA 10I2008

8 photo: Clarins Seminar Body Lotion with vitamins BASF Body Contour Gel Merck KGaA Perspektiven für Naturkosmetik Naturkosmetik als Perspektive Power shower with skin firming active Cognis Body Butter CLR Perfectly Legs: Body Sprayable Foundation Dow Corning Party Time! Show-off Shimmering Cream Lubrizol Noveon Consumer Specialties Lifting + Slimming Essence Nikko Chemicals Shaping Body Butter Rahn AG Donnerstag, 13. November 2008 Hotel Dorint, Köln, Uhr Mit Abendveranstaltung im bauwerk Köln am 12. November 2008 Anti Cellulite Slimming Gel Dr. Straetmans Niacinamide PC Anti Cellulite Lotion DSM Nutritional Products Europe Ltd. Skin Firming Lotion Evonik Body Contouring Lotion with BODYFIT Sederma SAS SOS Silhouette Slimming Gel SEPPIC XXSlim Solabia Group Veranstalter Dr. Straetmans Chemische Produkte GmbH D Hamburg info@dr-straetmans.de präsentiert von Shower Gel with Jojoba Oil Hydrior Mild Amide-Free Clear Body Wash Stepan No more fitness: Anti-orange peel emulsion IMPAG Import GmbH Firming Lotion ZSCHIMMER & SCHWARZ GmbH & Co KG Mediapartner:

9 SERVICES INTERNATIONAL B2B EXCHANGE Go to B2B Exchange: Find your business partners of tomorrow today! COSSMA and BEAUTY FORUM will help you to build new business contacts. All our business partners can use this "International B2B Exchange". Have a look at the entries below now and find your business partner of tomorrow today! Further information: see (a=new!) b2bexchange for more information about suppliers and their products Wish to export their products abalico D Weinheim, Germany Contact: Mr. Rüdiger Vogel info@abalico.de; Products: Cosmetic products for hand and nail wish to export to: A, CH, F, E, GB Anusan GmbH D Emmelshausen, Germany Contact: Mrs. Annou Ritzer webmaster@anusan.de Products: High quality Food Supplement Wish to export to: worldwide Beauty Line Consulting D Ubstadt-Weiher, Germany Contact: Janos Stegena info@belico.de Products: skin and body Care products, private label, bulk wish to export to: worldwide DR. BELTER COSMETIC GMBH D Braunschweig, Germany Contact: Ms. Carola Schmerbach COSMETIC@BELTER.de Products: skin and body care cosmetics wish to export to: worldwide Claudia Celia biocosmetic CH-6006 Luzern, Switzerland Contact: Indro Celia info@claudiacelia.com Products: 100% echte Biokosmetik aus pflanzlichem Inhalt die Profil-Linie ohne Kompromisse wish to export to: D, A Functional Cosmetics Company AG CH-4052 Basel, Switzerland Contact: Stefan Menzi s.menzi@sweat-stop.com Products: antiperspirants to wholesalers, drugstores & pharmacies wish to export to: worldwide Glory Nails D Kassel, Germany Contact: Sven Dowiasch Sven.dowiasch@glorynails.com Products: Cosmetic Products for Hands, Nails, Feet wish to export to: worldwide Dr. GRANDEL GmbH D Augsburg, Germany Contact: Mr. Jürgen Geisler geisler@grandel.de Products: Skin care products, Spa collection series wish to export to: GB, PL, THAI, F, GUS Heitland Cosmetics GmbH D Celle, Germany Contact: Ms. Heike Heitland export@heitland.com Products: Skin Care Products, Apparative Cosmetics, Spa Products wish to export to: worldwide Ingeburg Praxis-Cosmetic GmbH D Karlsruhe, Germany Contact: Ms. Renate Karner r.karner@praxis-cosmetic.de Products: Skin and Body Care Cosmetics, Ampoules, Decorative cosmetics wish to export to: EU + worldwide Ionto-comed GmbH D Eggenstein, Germany Contact: Mrs. Annett Kühl sales@ionto.de Products: skincare, podiatry, medical equipment wish to export to: worldwide Klapp Cosmetics GmbH D Hessisch Lichtenau, Germany Contact: Mr. Jürgen Steuer j.steuer@klapp-cosmetics.com Products: Cosmetic products, SPA collection series wish to export to: EU, S. America, Asia Neubourg skin care GmbH & Co.KG D Greven, Germany Contact: Dr. Thomas Neubourg neubourg@neubourg.de Products: Cream Foams wish to export to: AUS, AT, EG, F, GB, JAP, MEX, P, SA, SP, USA, VAE, VZ Christine Schrammek Kosmetik D Essen, Germany Contact: Birgit Schmitz b.schmitz@schrammek.de Products: Hautpflegeprodukte, Peelings wish to export to: F, I, JAP Swiss Mountain Cosmetics GmbH CH-8725 Gebertingen, Switzerland Contact: Dr. Rainer W. Schmidt r.schmidt@niance.ch Products: Anti-Aging facial care: NIANCE-Switzerland Wish to export to: worldwide TANA Cosmetics D Bielefeld, Germany Contact: Egypt-Wonder GmbH+Co.KG Mr. Ronald Fortmann info@tana-cosmetics.com Products: Colour cosmetics, Cosmetic products for self tanning wish to export to: A, P, CZ, S, GB, E 54 COSSMA 10I2008

10 SERVICES EVENTS Fairs, conferences and seminars When? What? Where? Who? SEPAWA Kongress Würzburg, SEPAWA Germany Innovations London, CMP Information Ltd in Naturals Great Britain Seminar: Qualitätssicherung Frankfurt a.m., Forum Institut für Management kosmetischer Mittel Germany DGK User Meeting: Hamburg, DGK e.v, Christine Domsch Rheologie kosmetischer Emulsionen Germany FormulAction Moscow, Reed Elsevier (Russia) Russia Intercharm Moscow, Expomediagroup Staraya Krepost Russia BEAUTY FORUM MÜNCHEN Munich, Health and Beauty Trade Fairs GmbH, Arndt Nickel Germany Luxe Pack Monte Carlo, Idice SAS Monaco Monaco Inaugural Cincinnati, Society of Sensory Professionals SSP Conference USA Seminar: Betriebshygiene Monschau, GfPS mbh in der Kosmetik Germany Seminar: Verpackung als Berlin, Deutsches Verpackungsinstitut Marketingtool Germany In-Cosmetics Asia Bangkok, Reed Exhibitions Thailand Natural Ingredients Europe Paris, CMP Information France BDIH-Workshop Mannheim, BDIH BDIH-Tagung Germany BEAUTY FORUM HUNGARY & Budapest, Health and Beauty Business Media Kft. Internationaler Wellness-Kongress Hungary spa concept BEAUTY CONGRESS GREECE Athens, Beauty Greece Tsirimokou Greece Pack Expo Chicago, USA PMMI Sustainability Orlando, IntertechPira in Cosmetics USA Cosmoprof Hong Kong, SoGeCos Asia China Seminar: Perspektiven Cologne, Dr. Straetmans für Naturkosmetik Germany Seminar: Abgrenzung Frankfurt a.m., Forum Institut für Management Arzneimittel/Kosmetika Germany Emulsion Days New York, AC Serendip USA PLMA Chicago Chicago, PLMA USA Seminar: Packaging Berlin, Deutsches Verpackungsinstitut Design Germany Emballage Paris, Exposium France SCS Formulate Telford, Step Exhibitions Great Britain Konferenz: Sicherheitsbewertung Wiesbaden, IIR Deutschland in der Kosmetik Germany 56 COSSMA 10I2008

11 Advertisers Index Company Index Alcan Packaging Beauty p. 2 Dieter Bakic Enterprises GmbH p. 9 BASF AG p. 25 Bayer MaterialScience AG p. 7 S. Black GmbH p. 44 Botanica GmbH p. 33 CLR Chem. Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH p. 5 Cognis GmbH p. 28, 29 Cremer Oleo GmbH & Co.KG p. 41 Crodarom p. 13 Desert Whale Jojoba Company p. 47 DSM Nutritional Products Ltd. Branch Pentapharm p. 45 Carl Edelmann GmbH & Co.KG p. 32 Etol Gesundheitspflege- und Pharmaprodukte GmbH p. 57 Evonik RAG Service GmbH p. 27 Flavex Naturextrakte GmbH p. 8 Greentech S.A. p. 16 Hacoba AG p. 26 HLP Clear Packaging Products p. 19 Paul Kaders GmbH p. 44 Hermann Koch GmbH p. 10 Kraemer & Martin GmbH p. 17 Lablabo p. 15 Lameplast SPA p. 39 Sigmund Lindner GmbH p. 46 Merck KGaA p. 68 Mani GmbH p. 8 Model Kramp GmbH p. 43 neochem GmbH p. 23 Oriex Events p.40 Rexam Dispensing Systems p. 21 Seaquist Löffler GmbH p. 37 Sederma GmbH p. 35 Seidel GmbH & Co. p. 38 Seufert transparente Verpackungen GmbH p. 35 Dr. Straetmans GmbH pp. 11, 51 Trichema AG p. 30 H.Erhard Wagner GmbH p percent pure p. 12 AarhusKarlshamn p. 26 AC Serendip p. 26 Acti Pack p. 8 Aerobal p. 36 Aisapack p. 18 Aldi p. 3 Alessandro p. 8 Artdeco p. 24 Astor p. 24 Autajon p. 8 Aveda pp. 12, 18 Avery Dennison p. 8 Babor p. 16 BASF pp. 44, 50 Benetton p. 34 Biophil p. 26 Boots p. 14 Bormioli Rocco p. 18 Brenntag p. 26 Burt s Bees p. 14 C+N Polska p. 34 Cabb p. 26 Clariant p. 26 Clorox p. 14 CLR p. 50 Cognis pp. 44, 50 Corichem p. 26 COSSMA p. 36 Cremer Care p. 44 Croda p. 50 DieterBakic pp. 8, 34 Dolce & Gabbana p. 34 Dow Corning pp. 26, 50 DSM p. 50 DuPont pp. 18, 44 Edelmann p. 34 Euromonitor p. 14 Evonik pp. 26, 50 Fribad p. 8 GDCh p. 18 Geka Brush p. 8 Gesamtverband der Aluminiumindustrie p. 36 Givenchy p. 24 GlaxoSmithKlineBeecham p. 8 Green Star p. 44 Guerlain p. 24 H. Höhing p. 8 Harke p. 26 Hydrior p. 50 if Packaging Award p. 38 IFF p. 8 Iggesund p. 18 IKW p. 10 Impag pp. 26, 50 Indena p. 44 Ing. Erich Pfeiffer p. 8 Inolex p. 44 Interpolymer p. 26 Kitozyme p. 26 Kline p. 14 L Occitane p. 34 La Prairie pp. 3, 16 Lab. Sérobiologiques p. 26 Lambiotte p. 26 Lancôme p. 24 Landerer p. 8 Lavera p. 14 Lidl p. 3 Liquidrock p. 12 Loire Plastic p. 8 L Oréal p. 32 Lubrizol p. 50 Lumson p. 34 Luxepack p. 34 McIntyre p. 26 Merck pp. 26, 50 Metabolix p. 18 Meyer-Hentschel Institut p. 38 Mintel pp. 14, 18, 32 National Starch p. 44 NaTrue p. 10 Nikko p. 50 Nivea p. 38 NRC p. 26 Nvey Eco p. 12 Olay p. 14 Organic Monitor p. 3 Otto Männer p. 8 P&G Beauty p. 14 Pfeiffer Consulting p. 42 Pharmos Natur p. 16 Pierre Fabre p. 8 Plasticum p. 8 Pro Carton p. 38 Promens p. 34 Purely p. 14 Rahn p. 50 Rebhan p. 8 Ren p. 12 Revlon p. 30 Rexam p. 38 Rhodia p. 44 Rieke p. 38 RLC p. 38 Rock Star Baby p. 16 Rockline p. 12 Rohm and Haas p. 8 Ruetscho p. 42 Sara Lee p. 10 Saverglass p. 34 Seaquist Closures pp. 18, 38 Sederma p. 50 Seidel p. 34 Selective Beauty p. 8 SEPAWA p. 26 Seppic p. 50 Solabia p. 50 Soliance p. 26 Stanelco Bioplastics p. 18 Stepan p. 50 Sun Chemical p. 26 Sunjin p. 26 Taplast p. 18 Taxi p. 12 Toly p. 38 Tubex p. 36 Weckerle p. 38 Weleda p. 10 Wella p. 8 Yes To Carrots p. 14 Yves Saint Laurent p. 34 Zschimmer & Schwarz pp. 22, COSSMA 10I2008

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13 E C O S M E T I C S S P R AY T E C H N O L O G Y M A R K E T I N G Certification What is special about the NaTrue natural cosmetics label? Packaging Elegant, tactile, prizewinning aerosols Events LuxePack 2008: Sneak preview VIP of the month Astrid Wulfinghoff, Zschimmer & Schwarz, talks about multifunctional ingredients in colour cosmetics Focus: Natural cosmetics 10 / w w w. c o s s m a. c o m