Contents. 10 I Body care. 18 I Toothpaste. 24 I Sepawa exhibitors to show even. 32 I An exciting NEWS

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1 Contents 3 Editorial NEWS 8 Markets + Profiles 18 I Toothpaste in chewable format 10 I Body care formulations and evaluation tests for sensitive skin 24 I Sepawa exhibitors to show even more effective and greener solutions 32 I An exciting selection of new ideas at LuxePack FOCUS Body Care 10 a Annette Mehling, Iris Hütter, Valerie Pian, Ute Griesbach, BASF: Sensitive skin solutions from head to toe 14 Ilka Rossmann, Lehmann & Voss: Hydrolyzed jojoba esters for improved skin 16 Nica Lewis, Mintel: International Launches MARKETING 18 a Star of the Month: Chewable tablets as a toothpaste 20 a Dr. Patrick Hehn, Isi GmbH: The right fragrance for marketing claims 22 Dr. Karl Lintner, Kal Idees: omics an omen for things to come? PRODUCTION 24 SEPAWA 2011 in Fulda: Still more efficient and greener solutions 28 Jürgen Singer, Singer-Kosmetik: The same rules for us all? 30 Ingredients News 32 a Luxepack 2011: It s Curtain up, with a preview of what s new 34 a Gregor Spengler, Etma: Tube of the Year New ideas for the senses and feelings 36 Packaging News SERVICES 6 Download List 38 Essential oils: Price list 39 Formulations: Skin firming products 40 Books 41 Events Diary 42 Suppliers Guide 47 International B2B Exchange 48 Company Index 48 Advertisers Index 49 Masthead Page 50 Trend statement 50 Preview a Leading articles Front cover photo: Gerresheimer

2 REGU -FADE The most effective solution for noticeably brighter skin DSM Nutritional Products Europe Ltd. P.O. Box 2676, 4002 Basel Switzerland Phone: Fax: REGU -FADE is a high-performing, nature identical resveratrol which brightens the skin visibly in 2 weeks. Gene expression studies demonstrate that REGU -FADE reduces skin pigmentation via multiple target mechanism for more efficacy.

3 SERVICES DOWNLOADS Free Downloads for Subscribers Click through our Web TV clips: talks about the challenges formulators have to face when it comes to formulating hair gels. photo: Dr. Babor COSSMA Download Tip Facial care trends in focus Anti-ageing, stem cells, sustainable natural ingredients, but also hightech actives, ethical aspects and nutricosmetics these are key phrases that are constantly heard in the COSSMA-exclusive trend statements from Sederma, Babor Cosmetics, DKSH, Greentech, OceanBasis and Gelita. COSSMA subscribers can download background information. Nature and luxury are setting the trend. Top-Downloads for October explains which parameters can make it difficult to achieve product stability explains, how and with what type of products the company will increase its activities in the natural cosmetics market. Market data: Facial Care Market Sizes, Brand Share Ranking (Euromonitor) Literature References: Sebapharma continues to grow (Sebapharma) Background: Castor Oil Alternatives (Inolex) Product Information: Moduline Machine system (Optima/Kugler) Formulation: Sunny Velvet Lotion (Merck) photo: Nikolai Sorohin, Fotalia.de... presents the major achievements in the field of R&D, i.e. the development of natural-sugar-based surfactants.... Downloads Additional information at Your access codes for October: User name: cossma10 Password: body Log in and take full advantage! On the COSSMA web site we post lots of additional information elated to the topics covered in the magazine. You will find more than 1,000 useful additional items to extend your knowledge and understanding: more information on the ingredients and finished products that we cover, market data and statistics, supplier listings, literature references, scientific articles, product formulations and useful base formulations. Take a look right now, at 6 COSSMA 10I2011

4 SEVERA sleek unique no comparison skin care packaging decorative cosmetic packaging design & development engineering tools & plastics decoration, assembling and finishing full service innovations hand & nail care professional promotional Items trends & gimmicks brands & private label i n n o v a t i v e C o s m e t i c G m b H M O N A C O Hall Diaghilev Stand DH4 bomo trendline innovative Cosmetic GmbH Schramberg- Tennenbronn, Germany Tel. +49 (0)

5 medical BEAUTY FORUM forms the bridge between research and its practical application in the fields of aesthetic medicine and cosmetics For a successful partnership: Covers the current state of knowledge and practice for doctors involved with aesthetic procedures and for beauticians Cosmetology, technology or trophology: Carries in-depth and carefully researched professional knowledge and guidance Published 6 times per annum Reaches more than dermatologists, beauticians and plastic surgeons in Germany, Austria and Switzerland Further information: Health and Beauty Business Media GmbH Karl-Friedrich-Str Karlsruhe Deutschland Geschäftsführer: Jürgen Volpp Registergericht Mannheim HRB USt-ID: DE

6 SERVICES FORMULATIONS Skin firming products In this issue we present skin firming products and lots of them. We have assembled a collection of 27 different formulations from a total of 25 ingredients suppliers. If any of these formulations is of interest to you and you would like more details you can easily download the full version from our web site at One of the increased consumer demands in recent years has been for visible effects and quickly! Exactly designed to meet this demand is, for instance, the Quick Fix Body Firming from Croda. Rapid results are also promised by Party Lifting Flash from Provital. A further requirement placed on such products is that they continue to work their magic for long periods. The Non- Stop Anti-Cellulite Treatment from Provital sounds like an answer. Specific parts of the body demand specific solutions, and Breast Firming Daily Treatment by Indena, for example, or an Eye Tightening Serum by Honeywell, could be what is needed. An aspect that is still important is convenience, i.e. offering more than one Croda Chemicals Europe Ltd. Contact: Cowick Hall, Snaith Goole DN14 9AA; Great Britain pc-europe@croda.com Profile: Croda is one of the world s leading suppliers of speciality raw materials, combining functionality with a natural positioning to provide winning ingredients for the personal care industry. With a wide and diverse product range, Croda offers innovation supported by proven efficacy testing across all personal care market sectors. Formulas: Body Beautiful Moisturiser Perfect Physique Quick Fix Body Firming *The access codes can be found on the Internet button on this page functional benefit in a single product. The Skin Firming Moisturizing formulation by AkzoNobel, the Moisturizing Anti-Cellulite Cream Gel by Evonik or the Firming Lotion for Sensitive Skin by Zschimmer & Schwarz are all examples of this featutre. For those who are seeking skin firming, and who also want to pamper themselves with interesting textures, there is a wide selection. For example BASF offers a Body Cream Gel Shape, Greentech has a BodyCreme/Lotion, Sederma has an Ultra Slimming Gel-Cream, Soliance proposes the Organic & Ecocert Tightening Gel, CLR has a Firming Cream Gel and Laboratoires Expanscience suggest their Remodeling Face Cream. Back to basics is the concept from Alfa Chemicals for a Fossil Salt Scrub. Radiance Surge Arch Chemicals Fossil Salt Scrub Alfa Chemicals Body Cream Gel Shape BASF Hautstraffende BodyCreme/ Lotion Greentech Eye Tightening Serum Honeywell Chocolate Hazelnut Body Fondue Candle Lipo Chemicals Glycolic Acid Scrub Protameen Party Lifting Flash ProvitalGroup Summer Legs ROVI Cosmetics In November we will be focussing on sprays and mousses. In December it will be the turn of formulations for lotions, creams and exfoliants. All of the information published here has been carefully assembled, however neither the publishers, nor the developers of these formulations, can accept responsibility for their safety or accuracy. Ultra slimming Gel-Cream Sederma Natural Men Skin Care Seppic Organic & Ecocert Tightening Gel Soliance Firming Lotion for Sensitive Skin ZSCHIMMER & SCHWARZ GmbH & Co KG Skin Firming Moisturizing AkzoNobel Surface Chemistry LLC Cranberry Butter Body Balm BioChemica International O/W Body Lotion Clariant Firming Cream-Gel (O/W) CLR Chemisches Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH Moisturizing Anti-Cellulite Cream Gel Evonik Breast Firming Daily Treatment Indena Skin-Firming Serum Interpolymer Remodeling Face Cream Laboratoires Expanscience Defy Me (Anti-Wrinkle Serum) Presperse, LLC Non-Stop Anti-Cellulite Treatment Provital Radiance Release S&D Chesham GmbH Downloads Additional information at Your access codes for Ocober: User name: cossma10 Password: body COSSMA 10I

7 SERVICES BOOKS Book Shop Place your order today, and be sure to keep yourself fully up to date! Current technical books selected for you by the COSSMA editorial team. Further information on the items listed, as well as lots more interesting titles, can be found in the beauty professional s bookshop at Order your personal copies today! SHOP Order now! Phone +49 (0) shop@health-and-beauty.com Imogen Matthews Premium Market Report New Elfriede Dambacher Natural Cosmetics Yearbook 2011 The new reference book contains facts and figures, and a 2010 trend analysis, as well as 1,000 trade addresses relevant for natural cosmetics. 280 pages, paperback, with CD, English version available, New Anthony C. Dweck Formulating Natural Cosmetics Up-to-date analysis covering the UK premium markets, see page pages, pdf, , paperback and pdf Wen Schroeder Sustainable Cosmetic Product Development This handbook is packed with information on the sustainable production of cos - metics. 384 pages, hard bound, This reference work provides information on almost 300 fixed oils, 200 essential oils, 600 botanical extracts as well as toxicological information. 673 pages, hard bound, Mitchell L. Schlossman The Chemistry and Manufacture of Cosmetics The volume Cosmetic Specialties and Ingredients reveals the intricacies in the employment of materials used in today s cosmetics industry. 386 pages, hard bound, Linda D. Rhein, Joachim W. Fluhr Aging Skin Strategies for treating the problems of aging skin are introduced as are the results of basic research. 572 pages, hard bound, Ralph M. Trüeb, Desmond J. Tobin (Editors) Aging Hair International experts discuss current diagnostic concepts and also put forward solutions for the treatment, as well as the prevention, of aging hair. 270 pages, 92 illustrations, of which 80 in colour, hard bound, Charles Sell Understanding Fragrance Chemistry This book covers the basics of organic chemistry as applicable to the fragrance business. 417 pages, hard bound, Johann W. Wiechers, PhD Skin Delivery Systems In this handbook entitled Science and Application of Skin Delivery Systems expert contributions update the reader on the latest findings in this field. 511 pages, hard bound, ECV Blue List Fiedler Encyclopaedia of Excipients This reference work for cosmetic ingredients, with CD-ROM, lists 8,000 cosmetic ingredients, including additives. 880 pages, with CD-ROM, This 2-volume encyclopaedia contains more than 12,900 entries covering additives, as well as a list of the manufacturers. 2 volumes, 1,600 pages, hard bound, Barbara B. Gilchrest, Jean Krutmann Skin Aging This comprehensive technical book contains numerous expert contributions providing an extensive overview of current research into skin aging. 216 pages, 72 illustrations, 24 tables, hard bound, COSSMA 10I2011

8 EVENTS SERVICES Fairs, conferences and seminars When? What? Where? Who? SEPAWA Congress Fulda SEPAWA Germany Seminar: Kosmetik-GMP Frankfurt a.m. cosmetic campus Betriebshygiene Germany BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH Munich Health and Beauty Trade Fairs GmbH Germany Seminar: EG-Kosmetik- Frankfurt a.m. cosmetic campus verordnung Germany Seminar: Marketing, Hamburg dvi Design & Technik Germany Centifolia Grasse Centifolia France LuxePack Monte Carlo Idice SAS Monaco Latin America Surfactants São Paulo CMT Personal & Home Care Markets Brazil LVMH Recherche London LVMH Recherche Symposium Great Britain Seminar: Vertriebsrecht und Mannheim Forum Institut Vertriebswege für Kosmetika Germany IFSCC Congress Bangkok IFSCC Thailand In-Cosmetics Bangkok Reed Exhibitions Asia Thailand BEAUTY FORUM Hair & Spa Hungary Budapest Health and Beauty Business Media Kft. Hungary BEAUTY CONGRESS GREECE Athens Beauty Greece Tsirimokou Greece Sustainable Hongkong Organic Monitor Cosmetics Summit China Seminar: Produktentwicklung Windhagen cosmetic campus Moderne Hautpflegemittel Germany SCS Formulate Coventry SCS, Step Exhibitions Great Britain HPCI Warsaw Verlag für chemische Industrie Congress Poland ICADA-Fachtagung Frankfurt Icada Germany BDIH-Workshop Mannheim BDIH BDIH-Tagung Germany Congrès Parfums et Chartres Cosmetic Valley Cosmétiques Chartres France Marca Blanca Madrid Markexpo Ltd. Spain Sustainable Paris Organic Monitor Cosmetics Summit Frankreich Workshop: Kosmetik-GMP Windhagen cosmetic campus Betriebshygiene Germany Seminar: Kosmetik-GMP Windhagen cosmetic campus Betriebshygiene Germany Seminar: Konservierung von Frankfurt a.m. cosmetic campus kosmetischen Mitteln Germany

9 SERVICES INTERNATIONAL B2B EXCHANGE Go to B2B Exchange: Find your business partners of tomorrow today! COSSMA and BEAUTY FORUM will help you to build new business contacts. All our business partners can use this "International B2B Exchange". Have a look at the entries below now and find your business partner of tomorrow today! Further information: see (a=new!) b2bexchange for more information about suppliers and their products Wish to export their products abalico D Weinheim, Germany Contact: Mr. Rüdiger Vogel info@abalico.de; Products: Cosmetic products for hand and nail wish to export to: A, CH, F, E, GB Beauty Line Consulting D Ubstadt-Weiher, Germany Contact: Janos Stegena info@belico.de Products: skin and body Care products, private label, bulk beauty lumis GmbH D München, Germany Contact: Angela Frommer a.frommer@beautylumis.com Products: 2-Frequenz-Simultan- Meso-Laser-and cosmetic products DR. BELTER COSMETIC GMBH D Braunschweig, Germany Contact: Carola Schmerbach COSMETIC@BELTER.de Products: skin and body care cosmetics Earlex Spray Tanning GB- Guildford, GU1 1SZ, UK Contact: Joy Young joy@earlex.co.uk Products: We are a manufacturer of Spray Tanning Equipment wish to export to: EU Glory Nails D Kassel, Germany Contact: Sven Dowiasch Sven.dowiasch@glorynails.com Products: Cosmetic Products for Hands, Nails, Feet Dr. GRANDEL GmbH D Augsburg, Germany Contact: Mr. Jürgen Geisler geisler@grandel.de Products: Skin care products, Spa collection series wish to export to: GB, PL, THAI, F, GUS GERTRAUD GRUBER KOSMETIK GmbH & Co. D Rottach-Egern/Tegernsee, Germany Contact: Roland Schäfer rschaefer@gruber-kosmetik.de Products: Wirkstoffaktives holistisches Produktund Anwendungskonzept auf Natur - basis der 1. Beautyfarm Europas. a Guderma GmbH D Bergkamen, Germany Contact: Mr. Manfred Wolf guderma@web.de Products: Skin Care Products for dry und very dry skin Heitland & Petre International GmbH (ROSA GRAF) D Celle, Germany Contact: Sandra Oliver Sandra.Oliver@heitland.com Products: skin care products, wellness & spa treatments Ingeburg Praxis-Cosmetic GmbH D Karlsruhe, Germany Contact: Ms. Renate Karner r.karner@praxis-cosmetic.de Products: Skin and Body Care Cosmetics, Ampoules, Decorative cosmetics wish to export to: EU + worldwide IONTO-COMED GmbH D Karlsruhe, Germany Contact: Export export@ionto.de Products: cosmetic and footcare technology Klapp Cosmetics GmbH D Hessisch Lichtenau, Germany Contact: Fernando Duarte f.duarte@klapp-cosmetics.com Products: Cosmetic products, SPA collection series wish to export to: EU, S. America, Asia NEOVITA COSMETICS D Mauer, Germany Contact: Karina Grimm IS@neovita.de Products: Premium Skin Care products for professionals Dr. med Christine Schrammek Kosmetik GmbH & Co. KG D Essen, Germany Contact: Birgit Schmitz b.schmitz@schrammek.de Products: Hautpflegeprodukte, Peelings wish to export to: I, MAL, RA, UA, ZA TANA Cosmetics D Bielefeld, Germany Contact: Egypt-Wonder GmbH+Co.KG Mr. Ronald Fortmann info@tana-cosmetics.com Products: Colour cosmetics, Cosmetic products for self tanning wish to export to: E, F, DK, S 46 COSSMA 10I2011

10 All trademarks owned by The Lubrizol Corporation The Lubrizol Corporation. make it elegant. Novemer EC-2 Polymer when its on the skin, fantastic feeling and pure performance mean the most. NEW Novemer EC-2 polymer brings unique sensory properties and powerful electrolyte tolerance to your skin care formulations. develop wonderfully innovative creams and lotions with bountiful botanicals, and other hard to manage actives. and, get it all with a delicate and soft afterfeel. formulate with confidence (0) NEW! NOVEMER EC-2 POLYMER multifunctional performance and powerful electrolyte tolerance for unique sensory properties make it with Novemer EC-2 polymer.

11 Advertisers Index Company Index bomo trendline innovative Cosmetic GmbH p. 7 Brenntag GmbH p. 31 Clariant International Ltd. p. 13 Cremer Oleo GmbH & Co.KG p.29 Dermatest GmbH p. 33 DSM Nutritional Products Ltd. p. 5 Carl Edelmann GmbH p. 21 C.H. Erbslöh KG p. 15 Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH p. 2 Flavex Naturextrakte GmbH p. 25 Hacoba AG p. 30 Iggesund Paperboard AB p. 19 Inolex Chemical Company p. 37 Paul Kaders GmbH p. 35 KIV Kunststoff Industrie Verpackungen GmbH p. 35 Kugler GmbH p. 36 Lehmann & Voss & Co. p.27 Sigmund Lindner GmbH p. 18 Lipotec S.A. p. 9 Lonza AG p. 26 Lubrizol Advanced Materials p. 47 Mani GmbH p. 8 Nordmann, Rassmann GmbH p. 17 Oriex Events p. 41 Provital SA p. 23 Rovi Cosmetics International GmbH p. 52 Dr. Straetmans GmbH p. 11 SystemKosmetik GmbH p. 8 Aésop p. 16 Affymetrix p. 22 Albéa p. 34 Alltub p. 34 Amyris p. 30 Aptar p. 32 Arch p. 22 Aroma Company p. 20 Baralan p. 32 BASF pp. 22, 24 BASF Personal Care and Nutrition p. 10 Bee Natural p. 16 Beiersdorf p. 8 C.H. Erbslöh p. 24 Clarins p. 32 CLR p. 24 CMC p. 30 Colgate p. 22 Croda & Sederma p. 8 DGK p. 24 Dr. Straetmans p. 24 DSM p. 8 DuPont p. 32 El Arbol p. 36 Essel p. 34 Etma p. 34 Etude House p. 16 Euroforum p. 8 Evonik pp. 8, 24 Floratech pp. 8, 14 Geka p. 32 Gerresheimer Plastic Packaging p. 36 GSK Packaging p. 34 Guerlain p. 32 HCP p. 32 IMCD Deutschland p. 24 Interpolymer p. 24 Isi GmbH p. 20 Johnson & Johnson p. 8 KahlWax p. 24 Kal Idees p. 22 Kiehl s p. 8 L Oréal p. 8 Lancôme p. 8 Lehmann & Voss p. 14 Lubrizol p. 24 LUM p. 24 Lush p. 18 Luxe Pack p. 32 Merck pp. 22, 24 Metabolon p. 22 Mintel p. 16 M-Real p. 32 NRC p. 24 Optima Group p. 8 Pentapharm p. 8 Planet Ark p. 16 Prediguard p. 22 Print Park p. 32 Procter & Gamble p. 22 Provital p. 30 Quadpack p. 32 Rahn p. 24 Rexam p. 36 S&D Chesham p. 24 Sederma pp. 22, 24 Sepawa p. 24 Singer-Kosmetik p. 28 Sleever MakeUp p. 32 Soliance pp. 8, 30 Soupletube p. 32 Symrise p. 30 TRI-K Industries p. 8 TU Chemnitz p. 20 Tubex p. 34 Ursa Chemie p. 24 Vrijdag Premium Printing p. 32 Yonwoo p. 32 Zeller Plastik p COSSMA 10I2011

12 The Team Masthead Page You would prefer to read the German version? Fill in the form below and make sure you receive the language version of your choice! Volume 12 ISSN Managing Director Jürgen Volpp Director Sales Cosmetics Tobias Klumpp Senior Editor Angelika Meiss Advertising sales Dorothea Michaelis Advertising support Andrea Bolz Subscription service Heike Saulewicz Graphics Ulrich Hanke Member of the German association for verification of magazine and newspaper circulation figures Published by Address Editorial Staff Advisory Board Advertising Health and Beauty Business Media GmbH Managing Director: Jürgen Volpp Director Sales Cosmetics: Tobias Klumpp Phone: Health and Beauty Business Media GmbH, COSSMA P.O. Box 1446, Karlsruhe, Germany Phone: , Fax: Legally responsible party and Senior Editor: Angelika Meiss Phone: François Berthoud, Jean-François Billon, Agnès Borel, Peter Finkel, Dr. Ulrike Heinrich, Ulrich Herfurt, Birgit Huber, Dr. Jean-Luc Lévêque, Dr. Daniel Maes, Prof. Dr. Hagen Tronnier, Dr. Klaus-Peter Wittern Advertisement Manager: Dorothea Michaelis Phone: Advertising Services: Andrea Bolz Phone: , Fax: The current list of advertising rates is dated 1st of Jan Circulation Health and Beauty Business Media GmbH Service Heike Saulewicz Phone: , Fax: Published: 10 issues per year COSSMA: formerly Parfümerie und Kosmetik and Aerosol and Spray Report Subscription Purchase price/annual subscription rates: Rates Germany: 192; outside Germany: 198. Cancellations addressed to the publishing firm by letter will be accepted one month before the end of the subscription year. The subscription fees will be billed in advance once a year. A quarterly debit transfer arrangement via a bank or post office is acceptable. Design/ Health and Beauty Business Media GmbH Production Ulrich Hanke Karl-Friedrich-Str , Karlsruhe, Germany Phone: ISDN (Leonardo): Printing International Representatives Hungary Italy Poland USA and Canada Kraft Druck GmbH Industriestr. 5-9, Ettlingen, Germany Health and Beauty Business Media Kft. Anita Zsilak, Naphegy tér 8. III. em. (MTI Székház) 1016 Budapest, Hungary Phone: , Fax: azsilak@health-and-beauty.hu Zero Venti Loris Sparti Via Giuseppew Luigi Passalacqua, Torino, Italy Phone: loris.sparti@zeroventi.com Health and Beauty Media Sp.z.o.o. Malgorzata Szulc, ul. Kubickiego 9/ Warsaw, Poland Phone: , Fax: malgorzata.szulc@health-and-beauty.com.pl D.A. Fox Advertising Sales Inc. Detlef Fox 19th Floor 5 Penn Plaza New York, NY NY 10001, USA Phone: Fax: detleffox@comcast.net Copyright Health and Beauty Business Media GmbH, Karlsruhe 2011 The publisher has taken all reasonable steps to ensure the accuracy of information in this magazine. Never theless, no responsibility is accepted for any errors which may occur. The magazine, including all articles and illustrations is copyright. Unauthorised use of published material is prohibited and will be the subject of legal action. This applies in particular to photo copying, translations, microfilms and the storage and editing using electronic media. The use of trade names, brand names, product designations etc. in this publication implies no authority for their further use by third parties. Such product names and brands may be the subject of legal protection, even though they may not be identified as such in the magazine. z I would like to receive the English Version z I would like to receive the German Version z I would like to receive both language versions of the print edition, please give me details of the special combined subscription price z I would like to be able to read both language versions online as pdf files at no extra charge. Please send the access details for the online archive monthly to my address below Please fill in completely in capital letters or add your business card: First name, family name Company Street address Postcode, city, country Date, Signature Fax to Contact: Klaus Schuler Health and Beauty Business Media GmbH, Karl-Friedrich-Str , Karlsruhe, Germany customer-service@health-and-beauty.com phone: , fax: Yes, I want to be kept right up to date. I therefore agree that you may contact me by phone, by mobile phone, by or in writing with news from the industry and to tell me about interesting offers. If I do not wish to receive further publicity, I will communicate this to the publisher.

13 E C O S M E T I C S S P R AY T E C H N O L O GY M A R K E T I N G Star of the Month Toothpaste but not from a tube Marketing The right fragrance for the marketing claim Packaging Tube of the Year 2011 New ideas for the senses and feelings Events LuxePack 2011 It s Curtain up, with a preview of what s new VIP of the Month Annette Mehling et al. from BASF present formulations for sensitive skin Focus: body care 10 / w w w. c o s s m a. c o m