Contents. 12 I Dr. Fernando Ibarra. 14 I Ingredients. 22 I Colour cosmetics. 24 I Which new NEWS

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1 Contents 3 Editorial NEWS 8 Markets + Profiles 14 I Ingredients suppliers talk about the latest trends in emulsions 24 I Which new packaging products offer protection for senstive formulations? 12 I Dr. Fernando Ibarra shows caprylyl glycol to be a good alternative preservative 22 I Colour cosmetics sales in Germany enjoyed a particularly good year in 2007 FOCUS Emulsions 10 Imogen Matthews, In-Cosmetics: Alternative ingredients 12 a Dr. Fernando Ibarra, Dr. Straetmans: Alternative preservation 1,2-Alkanediols put to the test 14 Interview with Bettina Jackwerth, Cognis; Nicole Häusler, Kolb and Ulrike Marx, Zschimmer & Schwarz: Trends Green formulations are much in demand MARKETING 16 Carla Ogeia, Mintel: International launches 18 Luxe Pack 2007 New developments for the ultimate in elegance 20 SEPAWA 2007 New visitor record 22 a Dr. Bernd Stroemer, IKW: Personal care products Germany, percent growth PRODUCTION 24 a Interview with Stephan Kneer, Gaplast; Monika Rüegg, Neopac and Franco Lucà, Pfeiffer: Safe packaging for sensitive products 26 Elke Tures-Fischer, Christ Water Technology: Pure water supply system Upgraded to latest standards 28 Ingredients News 29 Packaging News 30 a Market Survey: Distributors SERVICES 6 Download List 32 Essential Oils: Price List 34 Formulations: Sun Care 36 Events Diary 38 Book Shop 40 International B2B Exchange 42 Suppliers Guide 48 Company Index 48 Advertisers Index 49 Masthead Page 50 Preview a Leading articles Front cover picture: Lancaster

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3 CONTENTS our access codes for this month: User: cossma1 password: cream w w w. c o s s m a. c o m / d o w n l o a d Download more: go to: download Now available on-line for subscribers! Additional information, ready to download - just enter the URL into your browser to view the full data (a=new!) PRODUCT INFORMATION Product information: Ingredients: a ALP-SEDUM BeauActive MTP Dermofeel PO Dermofeel PP Dermosoft GMCY RED ALFA Lingonberry Seed Oil BLUE TOCOL Bilberry Seed Oil RED GAMMA Raspberry Seed Oil RED TOCOL Cranberry Seed Oil SHAJIO Seach Buckthorn Berry Oil VITA Strawberry Seed Oil EFADUO Blackcurrant Seed Oil ISP Captivates Parsol TX SOLaleur Syn-Ake Venuceane Volufiline LS Entielle Allure Finished products: Innovative products, selected by Amanda Linott, Mintel a Eyeliner Creamy a Lipgloss-Serie von Josie Maran a Luxus-Bio-Spa-Serie Om Mascara Quick Remover Shower Gel Dissolving Paper Shampoo Limited Edition Hair Care range Self-Tanning shower gel Nail-remover mittens Aveda Lip Tint SPF 15 with sunflower oil Terraké to fight stress, cellulite and skin-ageing AntiAge Leg Spray by Efasit Company Profiles: Sara Lee Cognis: Background Feelosophy SCIENTIFIC ARTICLES AND STUDIES Identifying new cosmetic peptides a Scient. version of article Natural peptides: Beautify your skin Scient. version of article, illustrations, test results Arctic berry seed oils: Scientific version of article, charts, study results Preservatives: minimum inhibit. concentration Benefit of Omega 3 REFERENCES: Emulsifier blend makes it possible: Plant-based W/O formulations References Nano-cosmetics: No health risk References Cell-active folic acid: References SUPPLIER LISTINGS a Service Providers international Address listing Natural Cosmetics: Supplier listing ingredients and packaging Contract Services International Address listing Ingredient Providers International Address listing a Packaging Providers International Address listing MARKET DATA AND STUDIES by country France: Market Cosmetics & Toiletries Geo cosmetics: Detailed description of the study Bulgaria: Data on economic situation Eastern Europe: Market Data Cosmetic Market Russia: Data on cosmetic market in Russia Spain: Market shares by segments, companies and brands by segments Finished Products: Fine Fragrance: Data premium and mass market world-wide Hair Care: Market data world-wide Body Care: Market data by segments and countries Natural Cosmetics: Market data, list of products recently launched (international) Sun Care/ Sun Protection: Market data international

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5 Advertisers Index Company Index S. Black GmbH p. 15 Botanica GmbH p. 27 Cognis GmbH p. 2 Ekato Systems GmbH p. 11 C.H. Erbslöh KG p. 31 GAKO International GmbH p. 21 Greentech S.A. p. 17 IKA - Werke GmbH & Co.KG p. 13 Industrias Perfum p. 28 Hermann Koch GmbH p. 24 Laboratoires Sérobiologiques p. 7 Lameplast SPA p. 52 Louvrette GmbH p. 29 Mani GmbH p. 28 Messe Düsseldorf GmbH p. 25 NEOPAC Packaging Solutions p. 19 Oriex Events pp. 26, 33 Ing.Erich Pfeiffer GmbH p. 9 Pfeiffer Consulting GmbH p. 6 Quadpack Germany GmbH p. 15 Rahn AG p. 31 Reed Exhibitions Ltd. pp. 23, 37 Reed Sinopharm China p. 39 Dr. Rimpler GmbH p. 8 Trichema AG p. 35 Zschimmer & Schwarz GmbH & Co.KG p. 5 Airlessystems p. 29 Armani p. 10 Aveda p. 10 Avon p. 16 B&T Srl. p. 34 Babor p. 8 Bare Escentuals pp. 8, 10 BASF Aktiengesellschaft Fine Chemicals p. 34 Beiersdorf p. 20 Borba p. 10 Bulgari p. 16 Christ Water Technology p. 26 Ciba p. 34 Circaroma p. 10 Clariant p. 34 CLR p. 34 Cognis p. 14 COSSMA p. 3 Coty p. 8 DGP p. 20 Dieter Bakic p. 18 DLI Holding p. 8 Dow Corning p. 34 Dr. Straetmans pp. 12, 34 Drom p. 20 DuPont p. 18 EQT p. 8 Erbaviva p. 16 Euromonitor p. 10 Evonik Goldschmidt pp. 8, 28 Fragrance Resources p. 8 Gaplast p. 24 GfK p. 20 Hercules p. 8 IFSCC p. 3 IKW pp. 3, 22 IMCD Deutschland p. 34 In-Cosmetics pp. 3, 10 Inika Cosmetics p. 10 Intercharm p. 3 ISP Europe p. 34 Kao Chemicals p. 34 Kolb pp. 8, 14, 34 L Oréal pp. 3, 8, 10 La Prairie p. 10 LCW Sensient Cosmetic Technologies p. 34 Light BioScience p. 8 Louvrette p. 18 Luxe Pack p. 18 LVF Mineral Makeup p. 10 Mercatura p. 8 Merck p. 8 Mineralogics p. 10 Mintel pp. 10,16 National Starch pp. 28, 34 Neopac pp. 18, 24, 29 Nivea p. 10 Omorovicza p. 10 Orafti p. 34 Organic Apoteke p. 10 Pfeiffer pp. 8, 24 Procter & Gamble p. 8 Rahn p. 34 Reckitt Benckiser p. 8 Rexam pp. 8, 18 Risdon p. 8 Rohm and Haas p. 8 Sepawa p. 20 Seufert Transparente Verpackungen p. 8 Silab p. 34 Skyn Iceland p. 10 Southern Cross p. 34 Swissdent p. 8 Symrise pp. 8, 28, 34 Taer Icelandic p. 10 TRI-K Industries p. 34 Wella Manufacturing p. 26 Zschimmer & Schwarz p. 14 Zymetech p COSSMA 1I2008

6 APG#4_11/2007 COSSMA Green in every sense: Cognis APG. Nearly every second adult view their skin as sensitive. That s why most consumers prefer personal care products that offer outstanding mildness, natural ingredients and a compatible sensory profile. Are your products delivering what the market now demands? With our green APG, they can. APG is a unique class of non ionic surfactants, obtained from renewable raw materials such as coconut oil and starch. With its excellent mildness and foaming attributes, it offers exceptional performance in facial, body and hair cleansing products, liquid soaps, baby shampoos and toothpaste. Cognis is the world s largest manufacturer of the original APG surfactant and has the longest history in production and application know how. APG will turn your formulation green without any compromise in performance. The alkyl polyglucosides from Cognis are available under the Plantacare and Plantaren brands and can be purchased throughout the world with top grade quality. And thanks to its natural provenance it has a perfect environmental footprint, too. Cognis APG, the original green surfactant. COGNIS GmbH, Care Chemicals Phone COGNIS Corporation, Care Chemicals Phone Customer service care.chemicals@cognis.com

7 Masthead Page The Team You would prefer to read the German version? Fill in the form below and make sure you receive the language version of your choice! Volume 9 ISSN Managing Director Jürgen Volpp Senior Editor Angelika Meiss Graphics Claudia Henkes Advertising sales Dorothea Michaelis Advertising support Andrea Bolz Subscription service Elke Hucker Published by Address Editorial Staff Advisory Board Health and Beauty Business Media GmbH Managing Director: Jürgen Volpp Director Beauty Publishing: Claudia Maisner Health and Beauty Business Media GmbH, COSSMA P.O. Box 1446, Karlsruhe, Germany Phone: , Fax: Legally responsible party: Jürgen Volpp Senior Editor: Angelika Meiss Phone: angelika.meiss@health-and-beauty.com François Berthoud, Jean-François Billon, Agnès Borel, Peter Finkel, Dr. Ulrike Heinrich, Ulrich Herfurt, Birgit Huber, Dr. Jean-Luc Lévêque, Dr. Daniel Maes, Prof. Dr. Hagen Tronnier, Dr. Klaus-Peter Wittern Design/ Health and Beauty Business Media GmbH Production Claudia Henkes Karl-Friedrich-Str , Karlsruhe, Germany Phone: ISDN (Leonardo): Advertising Advertisement Manager: Dorothea Michaelis Phone: dorothea.michaelis@health-and-beauty.com Advertising Services: Andrea Bolz Phone: , Fax: The current list of advertising rates is dated 1st of Jan Circulation Health and Beauty Business Media GmbH Service Elke Hucker Phone: , Fax: Published: 12 times a year COSSMA: formerly Parfümerie und Kosmetik and Aerosol and Spray Report Subscription Purchase price/annual subscription rates: Rates Germany: 186; outside Germany: 192. Cancellations addressed to the publishing firm by letter will be accepted one month before the end of the subscription year. The subscription fees will be billed in advance once a year. A quarterly debit transfer arrangement via a bank or post office is acceptable. Printing VVA GmbH/Wesel Kommunikation Dr. Rudolf-Eberle-Str. 15, Baden-Baden, Germany International Representatives Great Britain Richard H. Thompson, 38 Addison Avenue London W11 4 QP, Great Britain Phone: Fax: richardmedia@yahoo.com Hungary Health and Beauty Business Media Kft. Anita Zsilak, Naphegy tér 8. III. em. (MTI Székház) 1016 Budapest, Hungary, Phone: , Fax: azsilak@health-and-beauty.hu Italy and Spain Erregieme S.R.L., Piazza S. Stefano Milano, Italy Phone: , Fax: Poland Health and Beauty Media Sp.z.o.o. Dorota Warowna, ul. Kubickiego 9/ Warsaw, Poland Phone: , Fax: d.warowna@health-and-beauty.com.pl Scandinavia BSW International Marketing P.O. Box 2714, 2100 Kopenhagen, Denmark Phone: , Fax: bsw@tele2adsl.dk USA and Canada Christine Mai, 519 Roma Ct. APT 3201, Naples, FL Phone: cm_marketing@earthlink.net z I would like to receive the English Version. z I would like to receive the German Version. z I would like to receive both language versions of the print edition, please give me details of the special combined subscription price. z I would like to be able to read both language versions online as pdf files at no extra charge. Please send the access details for the online archive monthly to my address below. Please fill in completely in capital letters or add your business card: First name, family name Company Street Address Postcode, City, Member of the German association for verification of magazine and newspaper circulation figures Copyright Health and Beauty Business Media GmbH, Karlsruhe 2008 The publisher has taken all reasonable steps to ensure the accuracy of information in this magazine. Nevertheless, no responsibility is accepted for any errors which may occur. The magazine, including all articles and illustrations is copyright. Unauthorised use of published material is prohibited and will be the subject of legal action. This applies in particular to photo copying, translations, microfilms and the storage and editing using electronic media. The use of trade names, brand names, product designations etc. in this publication implies no authority for their further use by third parties. Such product names and brands may be the subject of legal protection, even though they may not be identified as such in the magazine. Fax to Contact: Elke Hucker Health and Beauty Business Media GmbH, Karl-Friedrich-Str , Karlsruhe, Germany elke.hucker@health-and-beauty.com phone: , fax:

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9 SERVICES FORMULATIONS Sun care Download Extra The exclusive service for our subscribers: At you will find additional information that you can download. Your access codes for January: User name: cossma1 Password: cream Our formulations special in this issue brings you some exciting new ideas for sun care products. If you find one or other of these formulations of particular interest you can easily download the details from our web site at The access codes that you will need are shown on the Internet button on this page. This month we bring you a total of 40 formulations from 20 different companies. In February 2008 we will be focussing on formulations for interesting facial care products. In March we turn to skin cleansing formulations. All of the information published here has been carefully assembled, however neither the publishers nor the developers of these formulations can accept responsibility for their safety or accuracy. Among the suggestions for rather more unusual formulations is surely the Sun Allergy SOS Spray from Rahn. Another is the rinse-off SPF shower cream from Orafti, which, assuming it works, is the ideal solution for those who hate rubbing cream onto themselves. There is also, in addition to sun protection lotions, gels and sprays, a wide range of daytime care products with SPF and self-tanning properties, as well as after-sun formulations and sun care shampoos. BASF Aktiengesellschaft Fine Chemicals Contact: Europe, Africa, West Asia Cosmetic Solutions Ludwigshafen, Germany Phone: Fax: Profile: BASF Cosmetic Solutions BASF Cosmetic Solutions provides a broad portfolio of UV filters, actives, surfactants, cosmetic polymers and effect pigments for the cosmetic and personal care industry. Our newest products: Uvinul A Plus Granular, Bisabolol F, Luviquat Supreme, Luviset Clear, Luviset Shape und Luvitol Lite. Formulas: Daily Care Cream THREE LINES OF DEFENSE SPF 15 Only Mineral Cream SPF 15 Sun Spray SPF 20 Sun Care Lotion SPF 30 Sun Care Cream SPF 50+ CIBA Inc. Contact: Pasquale Falcigno Klybeckstrasse Basel, Switzerland Phone: Fax: hpc@ciba.com Profile: Ciba is a leading global company dedicated to producing high-value effects for its customers products. We create effects that improve the quality of life adding performance, protection, color and strength to plastics, paper, automobiles, buildings, home and personal care products and much more. Ciba brings new and creative thought to the processes and products of our customers in more than 120 countries. Ciba Personal Care offers high value ingredients which produce, protect or enhance a product s effect to benefit the end consumer. We specialize in: Antimicrobials, Functional Silicones, UV-Absorbers, Rheology Modifiers, Conditioning Polymers, Ingredient Protectants, Product Colors, Hair Colors, Moisturizers and Encapsulated Actives. Formulas: Soft Suncare Cream SPF 50 Continuous Spray SPF 20 Smooth Sun Gel SPF 25 Easy Use Sun Spray SPF 30 Sun Shield, Non Greasy SPF 50 Dr.Straetmans GmbH Contact: Dr. Fernando Ibarra Merkurring Hamburg, Germany Phone: Fax: fi@dr-straetmans.de Profile: Since its foundation more than 20 years ago, Dr.Straetmans GmbH belongs to the pioneers of developing alternative preservation concepts and raw materials for natural cosmetics. Together with our raw materials of regrowing sources, we offer valuable know-how for the product development. Formulas: Pre Tan Body Lotion ECO PEG free Sun Milk Natural Sun Lotion Sun Regenerating Shampoo 34 COSSMA 1I2008

10 E C O S M E T I C S S P R AY T E C H N O L O G Y M A R K E T I N G Markets Growth in 2007 German personal care market Packaging Effective protection for sensitive products Production New market survey: Distributors VIP of the month Dr. Fernando Ibarra of Dr. Straetmans on alternative preservation Focus: Emulsions 1 / w w w. c o s s m a. c o m