Contents. 10 I What do. 12 I Specifically. 24 I A new. 28 I Sustainable NEWS

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1 Contents 3 Editorial NEWS 10 Markets + Profiles 10 I What do carrier systems actually do today and where are they headed? FOCUS Facial care + Colour 10 a Dr. Johann W. Wiechers, JW Solutions: Delivery systems Don t forget about emulsions a Andrea Weber, Dr. Babor: Stem cells A fountain of youth for the skin? 14 Nica Lewis, Mintel: International Launches 15 Star of the Month: Make-up Recreating that inner glow MARKETING 16 Mei Graefe, Intergate Consulting: China A market with huge potential 18 New Products 12 I Specifically protect epidermal stem cells PRODUCTION 20 Dr. Karl Lintner, Kal Idees Beauty Ideas: Well-being A measurable buzzword 24 a Marcus R. Götz, Symrise: The next generation anti-irritant 26 Ingredients News 28 a Green packaging More commitment at all levels 30 New tubes 31 Fachpack 2010 More innovative labelling 33 Packaging News 28 I Sustainable packaging gains strongly in importance 24 I A new generation of agents for oral hygiene SERVICES 6 Download List 34 Essential Oils: Market Report 36 Essential Oils: Price List 38 Books 39 Formulations: Body Care 40 Events Diary 41 BEAUTY FORUM Austria The world of cosmetics comes to Salzburg 42 Suppliers Guide 47 International B2B Exchange 48 Company Index 48 Advertisers Index 49 Masthead Page 50 Trend Statement: Prof. Dr. Sven Gohla, La Prairie Group 50 Preview a Leading articles Front cover photo: Sanoflore

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3 SERVICE DOWNLOADS Free Downloads for Subscribers /download Click through our Web TV clips: /tv... presents the jelly fish extract for which the company got the BSB-Innovations-Award COSSMA Download Tip In vitro skin repair tests for dry skin Dr. Claas Rüffer, Research Scientist from Dermatest, shows how in vitro full thickness skin models provide specific information on damaged skin morphology and the corresponding repair processes without the need for direct contact with the test subject. Use of this model is highly instructive when testing the action of moisturising cosmetics products photo: Darphin In vitro full thickness skin models provides information on damaged skin morphology or therapeutic lipid blends that support skin repair. COSSMA subscribers can download a literature reference list.... describes product concepts of finished products... using stem cell concepts, i.e. protection concepts with anti-oxidants. Top-Downloads for September Product Information: Epiprotectyl UV (Rovi Cosmetics) Events: Review Forum Cosmeticum 2010 Scientific Information: Chemical Filter Free Sun Care (Sunjin Chemicals) Market Data: Body Care Market World-wide (Euromonitor) Formulations: Natural Rinse Off Hair Conditioner (Dr. Straetmans) photo: Nikolai Sorohin, Fotalia.de... presents the most recent product innovations of LVMH group. Dior uses innovative stem cell concepts for example in its One Essential facial care product. Downloads Additional information at /download Your access codes for September: User name: cossma9 Password: face Log in and take full advantage! On the COSSMA web site we post lots of additional information elated to the topics covered in the magazine. You will find more than 1,000 useful additional items to extend your knowledge and understanding: more information on the ingredients and finished products that we cover, market data and statistics, supplier listings, literature references, scientific articles, product formulations and useful base formulations. Take a look right now, at /downloads 6 COSSMA 9I2010

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5 SERVICES BOOK SERVICE Book Shop Place your order today, and be sure to keep yourself fully up to date! Current technical books selected for you by the COSSMA editorial team. Further information on the items listed, as well as lots more interesting titles, can be found in the beauty professional s bookshop at shop.beauty-forum.com. Order your personal copies today! SHOP Order now!: /shop Phone +49 (0) shop@health-and-beauty.com Linda D. Rhein, Joachim W. Fluhr Aging Skin New Strategies for treating the problems of aging skin are introduced as are the results of basic research. 572 pages, hardcover, Trüeb, Ralph M.; Tobin, Desmond J. (Editors) Aging Hair International experts discuss current diagnostic concepts and also put forward solutions for the treatment, as well as the prevention, of ageing hair. 270 pages, 92 illustrations, of which 80 in colour, hard bound, New Tharwat F. Tadros Colloids in Cosmetics and Personal Care This volume describes the role of colloids in cosmetics and personal care, highlighting the importance of fundamental research in practical applications. 321 pages, 156 illustrations, 61 tables, hard bound, New Tharwat F. Tadros Emulsion Science and Technology This essential guide for those involved in formulations technology covers a wealth of topics from nanoparticle synthesis through nanocomposites to cosmetic emulsions. 326 pages, 159 illustrations, 32 tables, hard bound, New Ikhlas A. Khan, Ehab A. Abourashed Common Natural Ingredients Leung s Encyclopaedia of Common Natural Ingredients provides an accurate reference source on natural products Jean-Marie Martin-Hattemberg Lips of Luxury In the French/English book Lèvres de Luxe or Lips of Luxury Jean-Marie Martin- Hattemberg describes the fascinating and multifacetted history of lipstick from its origins to the present day. 168 pages, hard bound, Charles Sell Understanding fragrance Chemistry This book covers the basics of organic chemistry as applicable to the fragrance business. 417 pages, hard bound, Johann W. Wiechers, PhD Skin Delivery Systems In this handbook entitled Science and Application of Skin Delivery Systems expert contributions update the reader on the latest findings in this field. 511 pages, hard bound, ECV Blue List This reference work for cosmetic ingredients, with CD-ROM, lists 8,000 cosmetic ingredients, including additives. 880 pages, with CD-ROM, Cheryl M. Burgess Cosmetic Dermatology This book explains cosmetic treatments carried out by dermatologists and how the symptoms of skin ageing can be treated. 170 pages, 35 illustrations, 33 charts and tables, Fiedler Encyclopaedia of Excipients This 2-volume encyclopaedia contains more than 12,900 entries covering additives, as well as a list of the manufacturers. 2 volumes, 1,600 pages, hard bound, Barbara B. Gilchrest, Jean Krutmann Skin Aging This comprehensive technical book contains numerous expert contributions providing an extensive overview of current research into skin ageing. 216 pages, 72 illustrations, 24 tables, hard bound, COSSMA 9I2010

6 FORMULATIONS SERVICES Body care Kewpie Corporation Croda Chemicals Europe Ltd. This month you will find here a special selection of the interesting body care formulations that we have assembled for you. These, and an additional selection of innovative ideas, can be found on the Internet at /download*. *The access codes can be found on the Internet button on this page Contact: Cowick Hall, Snaith Goole DN14 9AA; Großbritannien pc-europe@croda.com Profile: Croda is one of the world s leading suppliers of speciality raw materials, combining functionality with a natural positioning to provide winning ingredients for the personal care industry. With a wide and diverse product range, Croda offers innovation supported by proven efficacy testing across all personal care market sectors. Formulas: Calming Baby Lotion Natural Body Contouring Cream Skin Rescue Stretch Mark Cream Natural Moisturising Body Cream Xtreme Natural Sun Lotion SPF 30 In October we will be looking at the subject of skin firming products. In November it will be the turn once again of formulations for sprays and mousses. All of the information published here has been carefully assembled, however neither the publishers, nor the developers of these formulations, can accept responsibility for their safety or accuracy. Downloads Additional information at /download Your access codes for September: User name: cossma9 Password: face Contact: Okamoto Yuji Shibuya, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo , Japan Phone: Fax: yuji_okamoto@kewpie.co.jp Profile: Established in 1919, KEWPIE is one of the most trusted names in food and health-related products in Japan.Since 1983, KEWPIE has been a top-notched producer of Hyaluronic Acid for pharmaceutical, nutraceutical, and cosmeceutical products, and are now offering new innovative cosmeceutical Hyaluronic Acids, Hyalo-Oligo &,Hyaloveil -P. Formulas: Skin lotion with strong and long -lasting moisurization Milky lotion with wash-off-free moisturing effect Gel cream with strong and long-lasting moisturization Skin lotion with excellent moisturization Milky lotion with excellent moisturization Luxurious Moisturizing Body Wash Akzo Nobel Surface Science Anti-Aging Night Care (O/W) CLR-Chemisches Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH Dramatically Divine Premium Face Cream Cognis Dual-Action Wrinkle Serum Evonik Soft OW Lotion Imperial Öl Import c o s m e t i c c r e a t i o n s The luxurious promise for beauty POLYFOIL tubes provide the best security for your high-quality bulk, attract with their aesthetical features and offer innovative solutions in terms of convenience for the end-consumer. Fascinatingly attractive: innovative decoration possibilities with metallic and pearl effects, high-end refinements and numerous luxurious standard closures. Excellent barrier properties: protection against light, diffusion-tight, Water-vapour impermeable, corrosion-resistant. User-friendly features: capacities from 1 ml up to 300ml, different pump-systems, a 100% airless-solution and quick thread for better convenience.

7 SERVICES EVENTS Fairs, conferences and seminars When? What? Where? Who? Fresenius Kosmetika-Tagung Mainz, Die Akademie Fresenius Seminar: Bioverfügbarkeit und Frankfurt a.m., DGK e.v. Galenik von Hautpflegeprodukten Natural Cosmetics Nuremberg, Nürnberg Messe GmbH Conference Vortragsveranstaltung: Mannheim, Sepawa e.v. Sensorik BEAUTY FORUM & Spa Warsaw, Health and Beauty Media Sp.z.z.o. Poland IFSCC Congress Buenos Aires, SEQC Argentina International Rome, AIA Aerosol Congress Italy FA!R2010 Dortmund, Westfalenhallen Dortmund GmbH BEAUTY FORUM AUSTRIA 2010 Salzburg, Health and Beauty Marketing Ges.m.b.H. Austria Fachpack Nuremberg, Nürnberg Messe GmbH Sepawa Vortragsveranstaltung Zell am See, Sepawa Österreich Sektion Österreich Austria HBA Global Expo New York, CMP Information (CMPi) USA Seminar: Frankfurt a.m., Forum Institut für Management Labelling kosmetischer Mittel Seminar: Dermatologie Berlin, DGK e.v Cosmesur Buenos Aires, Indexport Messe Frankfurt Beautyworld Argentina Beautyworld Mumbai, Messe Frankfurt India India India PXA New York, PXA France USA SEPAWA Kongress Fulda, SEPAWA BEAUTY FORUM MÜNCHEN Munich, Health and Beauty Trade Fairs GmbH, Arndt Nickel Color Cosmetics Newark, IntertechPira Summit USA Seminar: Rheologie Hamburg, DGK e.v Luxe Pack Monte Carlo, Idice SAS Monaco Monaco Beautyworld Osaka, Mesago Messe Frankfurt Japan West Japan Karlsruher Kosmetiktag: Karlsruhe, CVUA Karlsruhe Kosmetikrohstoffe GfPS Kosmetiktagung Monschau, GfPS mbh In-Cosmetics Asia Bangkok, Reed Exhibitions Thailand Marca Blanca Madrid, MarkExpo Ltd. Spain BioFach América São Paulo, Nürnberg Messe GmbH Latina Brasil Olfaction & Issues Paris, Olfaction Conferences France 40 COSSMA 9I2010

8 The main points at a glance Dates: 25th and 26th September 2010 Opening hours: Saturday, Sept. 25th: Sunday, Sept. 26th: Venue: Salzburg Exhibition Centre Organiser: Health and Beauty Marketing info@health-and-beauty.com The latest product trends will be presented by more than 250 exhibiting companies and brands at the 24th BEAUTY FORUM AUSTRIA on September 25th and 26th in Salzburg photo: Tourismus Salzburg BEAUTY FORUM AUSTRIA The world of cosmetics comes to Salzburg Industry trends, new treatments and new products from a total of more than 250 exhibiting companies and brands from all sectors of professional beauty care await the visitor to the 25th BEAUTY FORUM AUSTRIA being held on September 25th and 26th 2010 in the Salzburg Exhibition Centre. In addition the exhibition includes an exciting programme of professional and supporting events plus numerous championship contests in the fields of Make-up, Nail Design and Nail Art. The core content of the 25th BEAUTY FORUM AUSTRIA is cosmetics, with prestige brands, market leaders and newcomers to the professional cosmetics sector. There will also be new products and ideas in the nail care sector, all playing a significant part in the varied range on show. In the foot care and podology section of the event there will be presentations of treatment concepts and interesting new prod- ucts. In the wellness and spa section the focus will be on salon and spa concepts and design. A series of practical workshop sessions will be offered by high calibre speakers from the relevant sectors, covering topics such as cosmetics, wellness, nail care, natural cosmetics, business and marketing etc. The championships taking place live at the event include the 24th Austrian Make-up Championship, the 24th Austrian Nail Design Championship and the 2nd Austrian Nail Art Trophy. All admission tickets bought at the exhibition ticket desk on the day, are also valid for entry to the 25th BEAUTY FORUM MÜNCHEN on October 16th and 17th. Note: this exhibition is taking place in 2010 for the first time at the Messe München International exhibition centre (Riem). AM

9 E C O S M E T I C S S P R AY T E C H N O L O G Y M A R K E T I N G Ingredients Stem cells: the fountain of youth for skin? Oral hygiene The next generation s anti-irritants Packaging Green packaging is the trend VIP of the Month Dr. Johann Wiechers: The future potential of carrier systems Focus: Face + Colour 9 / w w w. c o s s m a. c o m